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Bigger is Better: The 14-inch Pan

2008_02_14-Skillet.jpg

Those who cook in small kitchens - or who are simply strapped for storage - might look at the 14-inch skillet or sauté pan as excessive, a bit like driving a minivan when a hatchback will do just fine. But we've found it to be the size we reach for most often when cooking meat or vegetables.

 
 

For starters, we like the fact that we can easily cook four chicken breasts without having to brown them in batches (or watch one curiously curl up the side of the pan for lack of room). And more surface area ensures you get a good, even sear on the meat. We can sauté vegetables in one layer, meaning they don't lie on top of each other and need constant tossing to get to the heat.

We recently had the chance to talk to Melissa Clark of the NY Times Dining section, who seconded our extra-large obsession. She said, "You need a giant skillet. You'll get a good sear on your food, and if you don't have enough room when you are sautéing, food steams instead." Plus, sauces reduce faster in a big pan.

As for storing a 14-inch skillet, you can stack other pans on top of it or hang it in a place of pride. We love our stainless steel saute pan from All-Clad, but there are plenty of options.

Here are a few:

• Sur La Table's Tri-Ply Stainless Steel Skillets
Emerilware 14-inch Fry Pan (which is made by All-Clad)
Paderno Stainless Steel 14-inch Fry Pan

So, tell us: Do you drive a big pan in the kitchen? Or do you think less is more?

(Photo courtesy of Amazon.com)

This is by Elizabeth, who is up for one of our new writer positions. Welcome Elizabeth!

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Cookware & Tools, Elizabeth, All-Clad, saute, skillet

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Comments (12)

I find my 14-inch Le Creuset saute pan completely indispensable, and use it almost every day. Twee cookware just doesn't work for me.

At the same time, because it takes up so much space in my small kitchen, I use it as a substitute for other pans, rather than trying to cram them all into my limited cabinet space. I don't really need a roasting pan, because this is a great alternative when you're only cooking for two or four people. I even use it when making ragu, because those long reducing times are shortened in the bigger pan, as you noted.

Always happy to have fewer pans to wash, and one big saute pan will often do the trick instead of two or three smaller ones.

posted by Leslie in Portland on February 14th 2008 at 11:06am
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my favorite pan to cook with is a really big (looks like this, it's got to be at least 14" or 15" across), but i bloody hate to clean it - it doesn't fit easily in my sink and when i rinse it off water ends up going everywhere. i'd use it at least 70% more often if it weren't for that. i'd guess i'd have the same reaction to a frying pan that size.

posted by lindsey kathlene on February 14th 2008 at 11:07am
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we didn't register for pans when we got married, but one of my parents' friends insisted on giving us a large saute pan from All-Clad. I LOVE it and use it all the time-- I don't know what I did before I had such a large pan, though I do remember bits of things falling out all the time, actually.

posted by Eliza on February 14th 2008 at 11:47am
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I cooked everything in a 10" for years...when I finally bought a really big skillet I couldn't believe how much I love using it. I reach for it all the time. Grilled cheese for 4? no problem. It's amazing how much better things cook when not smushed up in 10 inches.

posted by mbskip on February 14th 2008 at 11:48am
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I'm pretty happy with my 10" cast iron most of the time, even though there is a 14" pan in the house. Even though the 14" skillet is hefty, I worry about heat distribution, and I kind of hate that the burner behind it becomes useless.

posted by Katie in Berkeley on February 14th 2008 at 3:47pm
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I would really like such a size to add to my All-Clad collection. I currently only have a small fry pan which holds about 2 eggs.

posted by Pixie on February 14th 2008 at 5:32pm
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bigger is better ;)

with the exception of the annoying run-off while washing up, in a small space, a few key pots and pans are essential to your survival and storage space. one or two versatile things can replace lots of gadgets!

calphalon used to have something called the everyday pan or something like that. it was nonstick but not coated nonstick that flakes off. you could make pancakes, stews, braises, put it in the oven, rice pilafs, stir frys, and put it in the oven too. i gave mine away when i moved and now i can't seem to find them anymore - very sad.

having said that, i do like a smaller 8 inch skillet because i like to fry tortillas on occasion and you can have your main meal cooking in the big pan and the tortillas cooking in the small one.

posted by Joan in SB on February 14th 2008 at 8:09pm
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this post is right on. although my kitchen and sink are small, the bigger pan is SO worth it. can't stand browning in batches (too little counter space, anyway), and i hang my pan on a rack on the wall.

posted by ee on February 15th 2008 at 5:43am
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@joan, calphalon still has something similar - http://www.williams-sonoma.com/products/sku6242309/index.cfm?pkey=ccphnon&ckey=cphnon

posted by dakman on February 15th 2008 at 6:38am
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This looks like what you're talking about, too:

http://www.bedbathandbeyond.com/search/search.aspx?nty=1&dim=1&N=4294966976&AggBy=0&sstr=calphalon everyday pan&order_num=-1

posted by kat98 on February 15th 2008 at 9:19am
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I've got an enormous skillet and I love cooking with it. Sometimes it feels like a workout when I'm lifting it, but I like being able to sear/sautee things and then not have to move things to a big pot when I'm on the next step.

I have trouble cleaning it because it doesn't entirely fit in my kitchen sink. So I do most of the cleaning in the kitchen and then do the final rinse in the bathtub. I mentioned this to my mother once and she was horrified. I'm not sure why.

I like horrifying my mother sometimes.

posted by sciencegeek on February 15th 2008 at 1:51pm
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Totally agree. I adore my 14" All-Clad. In fact, my finace just made us a fantastic stirfry in it about 10 minutes ago. Last night? It served us up a delicious Chicken Tikka Masala.

posted by elamont on February 27th 2008 at 2:04pm
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