Mary Keehn from Cypress Grove Chevre in Arcata, California was the second titan of the artisanal cheese world I met during my recent sojourn in San Diego for the Fancy Food Show. She was part of the cheese panel that had me, for a moment, thinking about ditching it all to become a cheese-maker.
Her roots in the cheese world are humble: she began the company almost accidentally as she sought out healthy, fresh milk for her children. There were a lot of goats. They made cheese. Today she manages a 18 acre dairy with 45 employees with joy and humor and is one of the most decorated cheese makers in the business.
Humboldt Fog is Mary's best-known cheese. It's a bloomy, soft ripened goat's milk cheese that looks like a two layer cake and is equally deserving of a spot on my dessert plate. I've been eating the Fog since long before I could really appreciate its greatness. Today, I understand why it has earned Mary so many accolades, and find myself talking it up to people waiting beside me at the cheese counter. I'm no trend-spotter: Humboldt Fog has been well-known for years and in many major US cities, you will find it at any food shop with a decent cheese department.
There's a lot more than the Fog coming off Mary's production line. She introduced us to another of her cheeses: a fresh chevre called Purple Haze, made with lavender buds and wild harvested fennel pollen. A nibble of it was a terroir-rich experience: as I ate the cheese, I also strolled down a Northern Californian path gathering wild-flowers. I don't think there is a more perfect name for the cheese.
Cypress Grove cheeses are available through their website, but check first to see if your local cheese monger carries anything from their line. In New York, Cypress Grove cheese are available at Fairway, Citarella, and Whole Foods, as well as just about any of the cheese shops in the city, including Artisanal Cheese and Murray's.
i love, love, love the Purple Haze on some endive.
view skittlbrau's profile
Cypress Grove makes the best chevre I've ever eaten. Humboldt Fog has now made its way into Fresh&Easy in Los Angeles! I've managed to convince my mother to buy it when I come into town. Nom nom nom.
view Amandica's profile
At the NY FF show, they were showcasing the Truffle Tremor, a Fog-like fluffy textured cheese with black truffles. It was divine, but sadly hasn't seemed to have made it out to NY yet. Something about that texture that she gets out of the suburb milk she buys, that really dazzles me.
view cheflaura's profile
Cheflaura, they have Truffle Tremor at the Park Slope Food Coop! I just tried it a few days ago (with an olive studded no-knead bread in a hurry) and it is indeed amazing.
view budino's profile
Murray's has it too.
view Sara Kate's profile
After reading this post, I went to the market and got myself a small wedge of humboldt fog and acme's herb slab bread. Toasted up the bread, drizzled with olive oil, rubbed on some garlic and topped with the crumbling chevre. very very good.
view Sassy in SF's profile