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Of all the Christmas gifts my mom has given me, the one I remember most and the one that is still with me is the tradition of cooking and eating on Christmas. I'm sure there were blocks and books, and I remember something about a sought-after outfit from Esprit probably in the 1980s, but what sticks out most in my mind is the Christmas eve tradition of tamales and the Christmas morning tradition of scrambled eggs, bratwurst, Mexican hot chocolate, and the braided Christmas wreath bread she made every year from the tattered pages of a 1978 Sunset Magazine. Those breakfasts alone were gifts enough.
The original bread recipe called for teeth-shattering candied red and green cherries in the filling. This year I'm skipping those in favor of some lovely dried cranberries I plumped up with brandy. You could also use other dried fruits but avoid the kind preserved with sulphur dioxide and sweetened with high fructose corn syrup if you can. In my redux, I also upped the amounts of filling and glaze: after all, those are the best parts and I always felt like the wreath could do with a little more of the good stuff.
Mom is on a plane from California as I type this message. Having her here and cooking together is our gift to each other this year. My daughter, just two, will get her first bite of the wreath and begin the new cycle of absorbing Holiday food traditions from the two generations of cooks ahead of her.
Bake this Holiday Breakfast Wreath and present to your family, still warm, with two hands. It is more than enough.
Holiday Breakfast Wreath with Cranberry-Almond Filling
adapted from Sunset Magazine, December 1978
makes about 12 servings
1 packet active dry yeast
1/4 cup warm water (about 110° F)
1/2 cup warm milk (about 110° F)
3 tablespoons sugar
1/4 cup butter, softened to room temperature
1 1/2 teaspoons salt
1 teaspoon cardamom powder
2 large eggs
2 teaspoons grated lemon peel
3 1/2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
For the Cranberry-Almond Filling:
6 tablespoons butter, softened to room temperature
1/3 cup all-purpose flour
3/4 cup finely chopped blanched almonds
3 tablespoons sugar
3/4 cup dried cranberries or cherries, soaked in 1/2 cup brandy or other liqueur
1 teaspoon freshly grated lemon peel
1 teaspoon almond extract
For the Sugar Glaze:
1 tablespoon lemon juice
1/4 teaspoon cardamom powder
1 tablespoons plus 3/4 teaspoons water
1 cup powdered sugar
In a large mixing bowl, dissolve the yeast in the water and let it foam up for a minute or two. Blend in the milk, sugar, butter, salt, cardamom, eggs and lemon peel. Beat in two cups of the flour, one cup at a time. Beat for 2 minutes. Add remaining flour 1/2 cup at a time until you have a soft, workable dough. You might not use all the flour.
Dump dough out onto a lightly floured board and knead until smooth, about 5 to 10 minutes, adding more flour if needed to prevent sticking. Place in a lightly oiled mixing bowl large enough to accommodate dough when doubled in size. Cover with plastic wrap and let rise in a warm place until doubled (about 1 1/2 hours). Meanwhile, prepare Cranberry-Almond Filling.
Drain the dried fruit of its liqueur and reserve for another use. In a small bowl, combine drained fruit with remaining Filling ingredients. Cover and refrigerate.
When dough has risen and doubled in size, punch down and turn out onto a lightly floured board, kneading just enough to release air bubbles. Roll into a 9- by 30-inch rectangle. Crumble filling over dough to within 1 inch of edges. Starting along a long side, tightly roll up dough, pinching edge against loaf to seal. With a sharp knife, cut roll in half lengthwise, carefully turn cut sides up, and loosely twist ropes around each other, keeping cut sides up. (See photos below for these steps.)
Transfer to a greased and floured baking sheet and shape into a wreath, pinching ends together to seal. Let rise, uncovered, in a warm place until puffy, about 45 minutes.
Preheat oven to 350° F. Bake wreath until lightly browned, about 25 minutes. While wreath is baking, Prepare Sugar Glaze by stirring together powdered sugar, water, lemon juice and cardamom until smooth.
When wreath is done, transfer to a cooling rack with wide spatulas, and a helper if possible. Cool for a few minutes then drizzle glaze over warm wreath. Serve sliced with extra butter if you're feeling decadent.
Wreath can be prepared up to 2 days ahead of time, cooled completely and wrapped tightly in foil. Store at room temperature. Re-heat at 350° for 10-15 minutes, then drizzle with glaze.
More Un-Gifting Ideas from The Kitchn:
• Ethnic Spices and Recipe Ideas
• Oreo Truffles
• D.I.Y Honey Roasted Peanuts
• D.I.Y Salt Caramels
• Easy Make-Them-Yourself Cheese Accompaniments
Next Thursday is Christmas and the following is New Year's Day so I'll be taking two weeks off from my weekly email. See you in 2009!
Cheers,
Sara Kate
Mom's Christmas gift to all of us is Christmas Eve dinner. We've had it every year since I can remember. It's always Grandma's Sweet and Sour Pork, gyoza, and fried rice (Dad makes the fried rice). I won't bother with restaurant sweet and sour because Mom's is so much better.
All day, Mom's in the kitchen making the sweet and sour since there is a ton of chopping, cutting and frying to do. Once the pork is fried, she has to keep her eyes on it or pieces go missing. Watching her and my Dad share the kitchen for the last bits of prep is always fun. It's just not Christmas without the snarking and friendly bickering of two people who have shared a kitchen longer than I've been alive.
view Tiamat_the_Red's profile
What is the difference between ground cardamon and cardamon powder?
view monkeymilk's profile
Gorgeous!
Monkeymilk - I think ground cardamom and cardamom powder are likely the same. just be sure the powder is not whole ground pods and just ground seeds - the pods aren't delicious.
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view Dana McCauley's profile
Made the wreath this year for Christmas breakfast. It was delicious!!! It will be tradition from now on.
view katalina's profile
I too made this wreath for Christmas this year! Not only was it beautiful and delicious I was so proud that I made it! Very easy recipe to follow I highly recommend it! I have also committed to making this wreath a Christmas morning tradition.
view Melissa Thompson's profile
Um yeah, for anyone believing the comments above that this disaster is easy to make- be warned! This thing SUUUCCCKKKS to make. Talk about a mess! This thing is so not worth it either- after hoping for a big payoff after wrestling with the three snakelike ropes filled with messiness- I ended up with what tastes like an Entemanns sweetroll. Spend your hours doing something else and then just go the store and buy the box.....or try the no-knead challah- that stuff is the real deal!
view akite10662's profile