With Hanukkah in its full swing, many a household is frying up some latkes. In the years of trying to get my hands on every latke recipe I could find, I've learned a few reliable techniques that turn out lacy, crispy, delectable latkes each and every time. And I'm here to show you how to get the same results in your own kitchen!
The Key: Starch Content
Use starchy potatoes like Russets: the starchier the potato, the crispier the latke. This is where Red Bliss potatoes, with their high moisture content, will most certainly disappoint. In my extensive latke research (read: What's the best thing about a good latke?), everyone selected crispiness as their number one desired latke quality.
The Method: Hand-Grating
Hand-grating (as opposed to using a food processor) on the coarse side of a grater works best. Honestly, I can't really tell you why, except that I found the strands from the food processor to be slightly too long and sometimes would get tangled up, resulting in a thickish latke middle.
For those who might think hand-grating is the pits: It took me less than a minute to grate one large potato. You can wear a Microplane glove and protect your hand, and the whole grating process will go very quickly. You can, of course, still use the grater blade of your food processor if you really dislike grating by hand or if you are feeding a lot of people.
The Trick! Lower the Water Content While Preserving the Starch
As you grate your potatoes, let them drop into a large bowl of ice water. Make sure there's enough ice in the water to keep from melting entirely for up to half an hour.
When you're finished grating, using your hands, remove the potatoes from the ice water (it helps if you're wearing thin latex gloves, otherwise the cold water really stings your hands) and squeeze them out over the bowl of water. Place the grated potatoes into a large colander lined with a kitchen towel. Gather the edges of the towel together and wring the potatoes (over the bowl of ice water) as much as possible. Set the potatoes aside and let the bowl of ice water stand, undisturbed, for about 20 minutes.
After 20 minutes, the starch will accumulate at the bottom of the bowl and form a dense, white layer. Carefully, as not to pour off the starch, pour the water out until you are left with the starchy layer on the bottom. Using a spatula, transfer the remaining starch to the grated potatoes and combine. Proceed mixing your latkes as usual.
Why It Works
This method is different than just grating the potatoes and squeezing them in a towel, because that way a lot of starch gets lost in the water you squeeze out. Here's what you're doing here: letting the starch settle at the bottom of the bowl while squeezing out the water from the potatoes, then adding that starch back in. You've lowered the moisture level of the potatoes while preserving their full amount of starch — and thus rewarding yourself with a crispier latke!
Have you ever tried this method? Do you have another way of making super-crispy latkes?
Related: Make Better Latkes: 3 Indispensable Tips
(Images: Olga Massov of Sassy Radish)
Martha Concrete Lam...

Why does it have to be ice water, why not just cold water?
Starch is insoluble in cold water.
This is how I've always done it too. Never thought about any other way as the results are great.
Yes! I do this! It really helps to bind the potato together. SUCH a good tip!
Alas the annual latke making is over, but this is a great idea. I usually grate into cold water anyway to keep the potatoes from turning red. Next time I'll add ice and scoop up that starch!
Right, Gary. It stays separate.
I have to ask, is this new info for people? I've always done a version of this.
Any reason why you can't just add a spoonful of potato starch to the potatoes instead? Would the results be different? Many jewish households have it on hand anyway for Passover recipes, and the box lasts for years as it pretty much only gets used at Passover.
This is how I made my latkes on Saturday, except I just used cold tap water- no ice, and the starch took exactly zero time to settle! When my husband was finished wringing out the potatoes there was plenty of starch in the bottom of the bowl. Oh, I also used the food processor and just flattened the middle of the latke once I had it on the griddle.Yum!
Thanks doll,
The Glamorous Housewife
I was thinking the same thing! I always have it on hand, and it seems like a much simpler solution.
Could you cut the potatoes into chunks before grating via food processor? I'd prefer to use a food processor and wonder if this would prevent the long stringy tangles that didn't work for you.
This is a great recipe, but not for 30 people. Check out mine, which uses Yukon gold potatoes (unpeeled is fine) and grates them in a processor. I then purée a portion of the gratings. I find that this comes very close to the texture of my grandmother's latkes, which were always made on a wire, not a box grater: http://alandivack.blogspot.com/2009/12/absolute-best-latke-recipe.html
This is helpful for us non-Jewish folks who love latkes but have no family recipes to go by.
Thanks for the tips (OP and comments)!
Genius! I've never been able to recreate my aunt's Kartoffelpuffer (super awesome German word for latkes) so I'll have to try that right away. Not kidding: I'll be up until midnight making Kartoffelpuffer.