The other night, I was laid up with a bad kitchen injury and a dear friend offered to make me dinner. Little did I know that she'd inspire not only a cheese column but also the future of my mac n' cheese making.
My friend's mac n' cheese is actually her signature dish, so her skills are already pretty solid. A key element, of course, is high-quality cheese, of which she has a range of trusted picks. She always switches up the combinations, but the cheeses of choice for this particular batch were Gruyere, Fontina Val D'Aosta, and an excellent sharp white cheddar. Other stats: breadcrumb topping, super-rich and plentiful bechamel, and perfect seasoning. It was nothing fancy, but she nailed the essentials.
This time, though, on a whim, she changed one thing that she-- and I-- may never stray from again: the pasta shape. It took a few bites to realize what was making this plateful that much more cheesy, creamy, and punchy. It was, quite simply, mac n' cheese on steroids.
If you examine the shape of a single round of a wagon wheel, you'll see seven regions for the trapping and coating of cheese sauce, plus a ridged exterior: even more gripping power. Compare this geometric figure to a macaroni noodle, totally smooth, with only two openings, and a narrow tube of potential non-cheesiness between them, no less. The advantages of the first are clear.
I've been around the block experimenting with different varieties of pasta for my mac n' cheese, so it is not with an amateur sensibility that I endorse this selection with utmost insistence. I even tend, more often than not, to opt for anything but macaroni. I go for varieties that are anything but mainstream, as if some esoteric choice of pasta would somehow elevate what really shouldn't be elevated, at all. So irony slapped me in the face when the humble wagon wheel really turned my world so topsy turvey.
The specific shape of a pasta is key, sure, to the success of any pasta dish, but nothing makes an argument more convincing than this shape and sauce combination. (Just ask my friend. She's a lawyer.)
Nora Singley is an avid lover of cheese, and for some time she was a cheesemonger and the Director of Education at Murray's Cheese Shop in New York City, where she continues to teach cheese classes for the public. She is currently an assistant TV chef on The Martha Stewart Show.
Related: Homemade Mac n' Cheese: What's Your Favorite Method?
(Images: Cupcake Project, used with permission, courtesy of J. Pollack Photography; Emma Christensen)
Floral Drink Dispen...

I've also had great success with spirals, which also pick up a lot of extra cheesiness.
My favourite shape for Mac & cheese is curly macaroni. It has a ridged surface and just looks cute.
M-m-m-m! My mouth was actually watering when I read this! How about a recipe? I'm still using one from my mother-in-law, which--though delicious--hails from the 50's and uses mild cheddar. I take it up a notch by using sharp, but I think I'm still behind the times. Anyone?
Shells. Nuf said.
I agree that shapes without small holes make much tastier mac and cheese. I like the mooses from IKEA.
If I buy Kraft, it's always Spiderman.
I usually use fusilli or shells, but the little one wants elbows because that's they have at school. But wagon wheels! That looks like something we could agree on!
Fusilli is my favorite, too. Will definitely give wagon wheels a try next time I'm in it for a calorie fest!
I actually really do NOT like mac and cheese with elbow noodles. Only wagon wheels, or the teeny spirals, or teeeeensy shells, or sponge bob!!! etc. Elbows are so slippery and floppy, no thank you.
I cannot wait to try your pasta recommendation, especially since it was written about with such poetic flair. :)
This totally reminds me of a story I heard on NPR a while back, about a book called the Geometry of Pasta: http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=129997818
recipe please!!!
Wheels are hands-down my FAVORITE shape for mac and cheese!
I usually use rotini, except for those rare occasions when I get nostalgic and make elbows. The rotini holds a lot of cheese, but I think I'm going to have to try the wheels out for size. Now, where to find them made from whole wheat...
I know this is weird but I like linguine.
I use radiatore - like the wagon wheel, it has numerous nooks and crannies for trapping cheese.
I like using koala shaped pasta - similar to the wagon wheel, lots of internal regions for trapping the pasta
(I also like to mix Stilton in with the breadcrumbs for extra bite).