The Cheesemonger: Brillat Savarin

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Name: Brillat Savarin
Producer: Various (Normandy, France)
Milk: Pasteurized Cow
Age: 60 days+
Price: $10.99-$16.75

"Tell me what you eat and I'll tell you what you are." It's not just the introduction from Iron Chef, but a quote from one of the original "foodies", 18th century gourmet Brillat Savarin.

In honor of this culinary luminary, cheesemaker Henry Androuët, named this (relatively) new cheese after him in 1930. Highly snackable and likely the first cheese to disappear at a party, I think Mr. Savarin, who believed cheese should be served at every meal, would approve.

Brillat Savarin (the cheese, not the guy) is a triple-creme, which means that additional cream has been added during the cheesemaking process to up the fat content. Though not as gooey as other triple-cremes, the denser texture of this cheese has the mouthfeel of slightly melted butter. The taste is mild with a sour flavor that reminds me of buttermilk with a long salty finish. The rind is a bit bitter, and although I'm a pretty dedicated rind-eater, I find it plays a sour note in an otherwise harmonious cheese.

Though the weather in the city has turned cold, go out and find the last offerings of fresh fruit. A handful of berries, a glass of processo and some of this cheese, you could have your own Indian summer.

Brillat Savarin is available at most gourmet cheese counters. Murray's currently has it on-sale for $10.99/ wheel ($5.99 for a half), though Artisanal also has it for $16.75/wheel. and it's at iGourmet for $15.99/ wheel.

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