The Cheesemonger: Brillat Savarin

The Cheesemonger: Brillat Savarin

Patrick
Sep 14, 2006

Name: Brillat Savarin
Producer: Various (Normandy, France)
Milk: Pasteurized Cow
Age: 60 days+
Price: $10.99-$16.75

"Tell me what you eat and I'll tell you what you are." It's not just the introduction from Iron Chef, but a quote from one of the original "foodies", 18th century gourmet Brillat Savarin.

In honor of this culinary luminary, cheesemaker Henry Androu√ęt, named this (relatively) new cheese after him in 1930. Highly snackable and likely the first cheese to disappear at a party, I think Mr. Savarin, who believed cheese should be served at every meal, would approve.

Brillat Savarin (the cheese, not the guy) is a triple-creme, which means that additional cream has been added during the cheesemaking process to up the fat content. Though not as gooey as other triple-cremes, the denser texture of this cheese has the mouthfeel of slightly melted butter. The taste is mild with a sour flavor that reminds me of buttermilk with a long salty finish. The rind is a bit bitter, and although I'm a pretty dedicated rind-eater, I find it plays a sour note in an otherwise harmonious cheese.

Though the weather in the city has turned cold, go out and find the last offerings of fresh fruit. A handful of berries, a glass of processo and some of this cheese, you could have your own Indian summer.

Brillat Savarin is available at most gourmet cheese counters. Murray's currently has it on-sale for $10.99/ wheel ($5.99 for a half), though Artisanal also has it for $16.75/wheel. and it's at iGourmet for $15.99/ wheel.

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