Sulfites in Wine: The Myths, the Facts, and the Truth

“Contains Sulfites.” Just two little words — yet so frequently misunderstood! Words you see on almost every bottle of wine. What are sulfites? Are they really bad? Do they cause wine headaches or other related ills?

The term ‘sulfites’ is an inclusive term for sulfur dioxide (SO2). SO2 is a preservative and widely used in winemaking (and indeed most food industries), because of its antioxidant and antibacterial properties. SO2 plays a very important role in maintaining a wine’s freshness.

Consumption of sulfites is generally harmless, unless you suffer from severe asthma or do not have the particular enzymes necessary to break down sulfites in your body. The amount of sulfites that a wine can contain is highly regulated around the world. Any wine containing more than 10 parts per million (ppm) of sulfur dioxide must affix to the label ‘contains sulfites’.

Myth #1: Red wine has extra sulfites, and therefore causes headaches

In the EU the maximum levels of sulfur dioxide that a wine can contain are 160 ppm for red wine, 210 ppm for white wine and 400 ppm for sweet wines. Quite similar levels apply in the US, Australia and around the world.

The fact that red wines typically contain less sulfites may seem surprising to people who blame sulfites for their red wine headaches!

Red wines contain tannin, which is a stabilizing agent. Additionally, almost all red wines go through malolactic fermentation. Therefore, less sulfur dioxide is needed to protect the wine during winemaking and maturation. So there goes myth #1.

Myth #2: Sulfites in wine cause headaches

Medical research is not definitive on the relationship between sulfites and headaches. There are many other compounds in wine such as histamines and tannins that are more likely connected to the headache effect (not to mention alcohol!).

Myth #3: Wine should be avoided, because of the sulfites it contains

Another surprising fact is that wine contains about ten times less sulfites than most dried fruits, which can have levels up to 1000 ppm. So if you regularly eat dried fruit and do not have any adverse reaction you are probably not allergic to sulfites.

While the figures I have stated are maximum SO2 levels, discussions with many winemakers over the years would lead me to believe that in practice, sulfite levels are generally well below the maximum permitted limits.

Myth #4: Sulfites are inherently unnatural

Apart from the potential allergic reaction, many people are against sulfites, because they feel they are an unnatural addition when making wine. While that view is valid, it is important to remember that sulfites are also a natural by-product of the yeast metabolism during fermentation. So even if you do not add any additional SO2, your wine will still contain sulfites.

A better understanding of how sulfur dioxide breaks down and binds during winemaking, better winery hygiene, and more careful viticultural practices to ensure healthy grapes (i.e no rot) have all greatly helped to reduce the need for SO2 additions during winemaking. Today, there are many winemakers who refrain from adding any SO2 until after the fermentation is complete.

Why sulfites are necessary

There are really very few wines that are made without some use of SO2. This is because wine is perishable, prone to oxidation and the development of aldehyde off-odors. SO2, particularly for white wines, is important for freshness. Wines without any SO2 generally have a shorter shelf life – about six months, and need to be kept in perfect storage conditions. Given that a winemaker has very little control over the wine’s storage conditions from the time the wine leaves the winery until it is consumed, it is little wonder that SO2 is so widely used to help guarantee that the bottle of wine you open will be fresh and clean, and taste as the winemaker intended.

Additionally, one of the reasons that you see more wines labeled ‘made from organically grown grapes’ than labeled ‘organic wine’ is because in the US organic wine must not have any added SO2.

Sulfur-Free Wines

All that said, we are beginning to see a number of ‘natural’ wines on the market, where little or no SO2 is added. As indicated earlier, this is easier with red wines, because the tannin acts as a as a natural anti-oxidant. It also helps if natural wines are sold locally.

Some sulfur-free wines to look for include:

• Catherine & Pierre Breton from the Loire. They make one wine without any SO2 addition during winemaking. 2006 Catherine & Pierre Breton Bourgueil Nuits d'Ivresse ( $26), is 100% Cabernet Franc. It is made from organically grown grapes, unsulfured and unfiltered. The label clearly states that the wine "doit être stocké en dessous de 14ºC", - a warning that the wine should be stored at below 14 degrees C (57 degrees F). Note: There is a tiny amount added before the bottling to keep the wine stable in shipping, but it is so minimal as to be undetectable in testing.

• Pierre Frick from Alsace makes a range of wines ‘sans souffre’. The 2007 Riesling and Pinot Noir wines ‘sans souffre’, are available at Chambers Street Wines in NYC (at about $22 to $24).

• Frey Vineyards, Mendocino – one of the first organic and biodynamic wineries in California. Their range include wines made without the addition of any sulfur dioxide. Organic Natural Red, NV from Mendocino is a blend of Carignan, Zinfandel and Syrah and costs only $8. Their unsulfured white Organic Natural White also, $8, is a blend of Chenin Blanc and Chardonnay.

• Domaine des Deux Ânes, in the Languedoc, is another organic wine producer using very little sulfites. I mentioned one of their wines in last week's post on the wines from the Languedoc Roussillon. Great value, delicious wines and widely available.

What is your view on sulfites in wine?

Mary Gorman-McAdams, DWS, is a New York based wine educator, freelance writer and consultant. She hold the Diploma in Wine & Spirits from the Wine and Spirits Education Trust (WSET), and is a candidate in the Master of Wine Program.

(Image: Faith Durand; wine producers)

Comments (8)

A lot of people who think they are allergic to sulphites are actually reacting to the particular form of sodium in the most commonly used sulphite - sodium metabisulphite. These people also react to other types of sodium like MSG.

Great article describing the myths about sulfites in wines! However, it left me a little confused when at the end of the article you give suggestions for organic, low-sulfite wines after spending the rest of the article telling us that there really isn't much reason that that should mean much to us. I suppose there still is the tiny fraction of people that do have an issue with sulfites like you described earlier, but really the article seems to be sending mixed messages to me. Did I miss something?

To Justin PDX - No you did not miss anything. Apologies for any confusion. Health-wise, sulfites in wine do not harm most people. My point here was that sulfites have been erroneously blamed many times for all ills felt from drinking wine. The move to more natural winemaking is really a separate point (to be lauded). Regardless of allergies or other health issues, more people are now seeking out wines (and foods of course) that are as natural as possible.
This is an expansive and contentious topic and it was hard cover it all in one post.

Hit or miss with me. Every now and then a red wine will give me a headache the next day (a glass or two) and a glass or two has made be physically ill twice in my life. Nonetheless, so infrequent, I still take my chances.

I realized I was sensitive or allergic to sulfites when I started getting asthma attacks from taking a bite of any dried fruit. After trying some of the sulphite-free wines (granted, I did not have any recommendations to go off of!), I decided I could tough out the tiny reaction I had from wine, so I could have more options. Still can't eat dried fruit, though!

@shanbrite2 -- try taking 500 to 1,000 mg quercetin an hour before having wine (or dried fruit). Quercetin is a bioflavonoid naturally occurring in citrus fruits, onions, and apples, and prevents release of histamine in cells and has other anti-inflammatory actions. My husband has bad astma, and some wines definitely make him wheezy. Quercetin helps reduce wheeziness a lot.

You might also be wheezy due to the yeast in wine. Most patients I have seen have a moderate to high allergy to brewers yeast. Red wine is higher than white wine for yeast. This doesn't explain your reaction to dried fruit, but is something to think about.

Also -- the trace element molybdenum is necessary for the enzyme that breaks down sulfites. Consequently, many people with asthma have been found to be deficient in molybdenum. So, if you're noticing a problem with high sulfite foods you could try taking some molybdenum for a couple of weeks and see if it helps.

Piffle.Millions of people suffer from the problem of sulphite in wine along with all the other chemicals.I wonder if the writer is working for for the wine trade?trying to dispel what she seems to dismiss in such a flippant way.I agree with `JUSTINPDX` if you think it such a minor problem why then recommend SO2 free wine.I do not have asthma and have always suffered with sulphite in wine and furthermore at least 40% of my friends seem to experience the same symptoms.Fortunately we are able now to buy sulphite free wines from numerous companies, who obviously recognise the problem this nasty preservative creates. May I commend your readers to www.goodwineonline.co.uk Go to the section on organic wines and read Sulphites Explained+Alergy VS Hangover and other sections on this subject, plus testimonials, to have a full and succinct view on this matter..Highly informative and really gets to grip with the issue unlike your article which in my opinion is lightweight.

I agree this is a vast subject, very difficult to cover in a small article - but I strongly disagree with a statement you made which you may want to consider retracting. You state that "sulfites in wine do not harm most people" which is very brave and very foolish of you. Firstly sulphites have been strongly linked to the rapid increase in stomach and throat cancers, and the massive surge in asthma in developed countries. Medical "proof" takes years and years of study and research, and is virtually never conclusive for fear of stating the wrong thing, hence terms like "strongly linked" have to be used. But patients in remission from cancer are told by their doctors to cut out all sulphites. My partner has a severe sulphite allergy and the consultant treating her told her she was one of the lucky ones, as she wasn't able to continue poisoning herself unlike those who don't have an obvious reaction. The BMA stated that two glasses of wine a day can dramatically increase your chances of contracting cancer - about 85% of wine consumed in the UK is factory produced and laced with sulphites and chemicals. The alcohol itself isn't actually bad for you (in moderation), it is the added chemicals, sulphites in particular. Nestle Pharmaceutical have invested millions of pounds into researching resveratrol, a natural anti oxidant, as they are aware of the harm these sulphites are doing. You'll also note that a lot of own label produce in the supermarkets is now "no artificial additives or preservatives" - again because the global companies know the damage these artificial preservatives are doing to people. Sulphite intolerance is massively on the increase. Ask any allergy consultant and they will tell you that the human body reaches a point where it is "full" of certain toxins then can't tolerate any more and the allergy is born, as part of the body's defense system to stop you taking in any more of the substance. Sulphites have been in virtually every food and drink for the last 30 years and many people are no longer able to tolerate them. In the same time asthma rates have increased from 2% to 35% and cancer rates have shot up. Are you sure you want to state categorically that sulphites are harmless?