Want to learn a wonderful recipe that perfectly celebrates the flavors of spring? The bright tang of lemon, smoothness of Parmesan cheese and earthy nuance of one of the season's most ephemeral and lovely stars, wild ramps — just a handful of ingredients come together to form a heavenly meal. One bite and you will transcend time, shooting straight through blurry thoughts into the present moment. Chef Timothy Wastell from DOC in Portland, Oregon, walks us through one divine plate of rice.
Timothy is the chef at one of Portland's most romantic, cozy and seasonal restaurants, DOC. His cooking philosophy of using only the most seasonal and local produce is reflected in the recipe he shares with us today.
The ramps were harvested just this morning from Tim's forager, straight from the muddy hills of Portland. This chef prefers simple, perfect ingredients that really let the food stand 'naked,' meaning the natural flavors shine through without much adornment. Local produce and seasonality guide Tim's menu choices, not a particular region or trend.
Lucky for us home cooks, Timothy talks us through a delicious plate of risotto. No tricks here, just honest, pure ingredients and a little elbow grease at the stove. Served with a light salad of spring greens, and a glass of wine, this meal will surely win praises and happy-belly sighs of satisfaction.
What I appreciate about this risotto in particular is how balanced the bright seasonal flavors are — the acid of the lemon meets the fat of the local butter, nutty Parmesan, and delicate ramps head on — everything is highlighted, creating a dish greater than the sum of its parts. Eating in this way, punctuating each meal with just-dug-from the Earth ingredients, makes me feel full and connected to the place I live. It enlivens my tastebuds and calms the mind, knowing great food can come from the wet Oregon soil. It's also a sign that good things are on the horizon, in fact, they're already here. Hallelujah, spring has sprung!

serves four
1 quart vegetable stock
3 tablespoons unsalted butter, divided
1 cup sliced ramps, thoroughly cleaned and the white and green parts divided
1 cup carnaroli rice (arborio or another short-grained, stubby rice is fine as well)
1/4 cup dry white wine
Juice and zest of 1 lemon
Parmesan Reggiano
Good salt and fresh black pepper
In a small saucepan bring broth to a simmer (you'll be using this in just a few minutes). Place a heavy bottomed, tall-sided pan or Dutch oven (as pictured in photos) over medium heat and add one tablespoon butter and the sliced white portion of the rams and sweat for two minutes. This is akin to sweating an onion, you want translucency, not golden color. Slightly increase the heat and add the rice, stirring frequently to completely coat the rice with the hot butter, cook for a few minutes until the rice is no longer opaque. Cooking the risotto rice and ramps in this way adds texture and flavor to the final dish.
Next, add the dry white wine to the rice and cook until it has completely evaporated. Lightly season the rice with salt, and then add enough hot stock to just barely cover the rice. Stir, letting the rice absorb the liquid almost entirely before adding a small amount more. The rice should be cooking at a moderate temperature and slowly bubbling as you continue stirring and adding liquid. This will take about 15 minutes total. Taste the rice for doneness: it should have lost its "raw" crunch , but still be firm in the middle.
Cook for a minute or two longer, then add the remaining butter, lemon zest and lemon juice. Stir in the ramp greens and season the risotto with more salt and fresh black pepper. Adjust the consistency with a little more hot stock if necessary (the finished dish should be smoothly emulsified and pourable without being watery).
Finally, grate some Parmesan into the risotto and gently give it one or two stirs to incorporate the cheese without creating a stringy texture. Serve immediately.
• Visit DOC Restaurant: DOC
Related: Restaurant Recipe: Buttermilk Fried Chicken from Ad Hoc
(Images: Leela Cyd Ross)








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Comments (15)
Giving us recipes with ingredients we can't buy is ridiculous. Ramps? Carnaroli rice? They aren't in any store I've ever shopped in, in 10 states! Get real here, people!
BarbaradG, substitute leeks or even onions for the ramps and use arborio or really any short grain rice you can find. Or go to Whole Foods, they'll have it all
I think there's an error in the first paragraph of the directions. Or am I just not getting it?
The nearest Whole Foods market is exactly 54.8 miles from where I live. The small cities and towns just don't have this kind of produce, and they don't have WF markets! Until last summer I couldn't even buy cilantro except dried and in a jar. If you're going to highlight exotic produce then please give an alternative at the same time. I've lived near Boston, Portland, Oregon, Dallas, and several other major cities, and I've never seen these things, and I'm always on the lookout for something new to try. You seem to only write for people who have access to these exotic things and forget about the 99% of us who don't. It has happened so many times that I just assume no recipe is going to be something that I can try. It is very frustrating.
@BarbaradG, I urge you to look through the archives; I think you may be overreacting. The Kitchn has tons of easy recipes with easy-to-find ingredients. I'm betting if someone took the time, you would find more recipes with normal grocery store ingredients than not. It seems that there is always someone who complains whenever they highlight a seasonal/local/special ingredient. Use your imagination and substitute! Or move on to the next recipe! Or, if you don't like what's on this site, you can read another cooking website. Try The Pioneer Woman; she lives in the country and doesn't have a Whole Foods around her, either.
And forgive me if I sound rude, but I think there are other ways to deal with "frustration" rather than whining in the comments. An email to the editor, perhaps?
Hello. Leela here -- I wrote this piece in order to highlight a local ingredient, wild ramps, that brings me joy (just for a couple weeks!). I have no intention of making anyone feel bad or point out that they have limited access to ingredients . . . I'm sure there's something in your area, barbaraG, that I would love to try but cannot, as I live over here in Portland . . . What I hope to impart to readers is inspiration, not a sense of super seasonal entitlement. If you can't get ramps, you can use an onion and it'd still be great! If carnoroli rice is unavailable, arborio or another variety (i've seen 'risotto' rice at all major grocery stores).
take care,
Leela Cyd Ross, contributor to The Kitchn
Wow, first picture is simply GORGEOUS!
I love that you're celebrating your city and its produce! Gorgeous photos, simple recipe. It looks stunning.
agree - over reacting. Arborio rice is mainstream at this point and the intention of providing recipes is for people to use a bit of imagination to make them your own. Leela - I think its a great article and think it's neat to show unique ingredients whether one ends up making the dish or not.
I heart ramps :) Such a lovely flavor.
Far better to light one candle than to curse the darkness. I like the idea of looking for new ingredients and will try this. I don't live in a big city, but when I shop and ask for something at a produce or greengrocer they get engaged in the process. And good cooking is all about paying attention--making and eating. I will try the ramps and thank you for steering me to new ingredients that might add something to my life. Good job.
ramp it up! i'm about to. never have before, but new greens are exciting, and usually tasty and unexpected. can't wait!
This look and sounds so yummy!!!
I live in rural Maine and am able to find arborio rice at the local grocery store- if you can't find it, try asking someone that works in the grocery store! My bet is its available. Risotto is too good to miss out on! Thanks for the story and recipe.
Hello all. I hope that it is not inappropriate, but our farm sells and ships Wild Ramps. If you are having trouble finding this wonderful, seasonal ingredient, please send us an email at broehl-family-farm@hotmail.com. Again, I hope that it was not inappropriate to advertise our ramps. I just saw that a few people have had some trouble finding them. Sincerely, ~Broehl Family Farm~