Product Review: Emeril Pro Cutlery Knives

Next in line with celebrity-branded culinary tools is Chef Emeril Lagasse's new cutlery line for Wüsthof. I had a chance to give these knives a turn. Set to dislike them for their celebrity-backing (I'm partial to no-name restaurant-supply knives) and their odd, faux-wood handles, I ended up impressed with their design and functionality.

Allow me to get the handle design issue out of the way: they are made from mahogany Micarta, a rather strange-looking but durable material that combines resin and strands of fabric to make something that looks a bit like wood. A bit like wood. I'm not sure why you'd want a knife with a handle that looks a bit like wood, but Emeril thought you might. Maybe you do.

The blades, however, are fantastic. Made from high-carbon steel, they are based on Wüsthof's Classic collection, but with sharper blades thanks to extra grinding and polishing. I won't lie - I snipped a layer off my left index finger the first time I worked the 10-inch "super-slicer," a great hollow-edge multi-purpose knife I'd never used before and that would make a great "just one good knife" purchase. These blades are sharp and light so they move quickly. Can your fingers keep up?

I've heard cries for a light yet sharp knife, and this is the answer to those cries. The knives are well-balanced without being heavy. While some cooks like a weighty knife, some would rather not be burdened with weight but it is difficult to find a light knife with a high-quality blade. Here it is.

I wouldn't expect any less from Wüsthof, but it's worth pointing out that these knives have a full tang with blades and handles attached seamlessly. These are knives for life.

The prices aren't exactly on the budget lines, but they are a pretty good deal for good knives. They range from $49.95 for a 3 1/2-inch paring knife to $139.95 for the 8-inch chef's knife.

I suspect the funky handle design was necessary to set these knives apart from other high-quality knives (if nothing else, we as a culinary culture are rich in choice for high-end knives). I wish the designers had gone with something other than faux-wood as a signature design choice, but at least the knives work well. And how.

• Check out the full Emeril Pro line at Sur La Table (free shipping)

Comments (6)

I went to the website and saw it costs 499 for the whole set. It's not expensive if those knives are as great as they should be...but dropping 500 on knives...ehhh a bit out of my price range at this point. Thanks for the link though! Give me a few shots, maybe I will make the purchase.

I'm not so sure on the "extra grinding and polishing" bit. The edge could possibly be ground to a smaller angle than the Classic, but from what I understand, Wusthof is moving all of their knives to a 16 to 18 degree edge (comparable to Shun and other Japanese style knives - traditional German blades are ground to about 22 degress)

I have also been told (from a Wusthof rep) that the Emeril Pro blade is the EXACT same blade as the classic.

This is at least his second set of wusthof knives the first set had black handles and cost way less I got I a smaller chef knife I think 5 or 6 inches for like $30 and I really love the thing its much easier than a full size one and stays sharp.

The first series was stamped. Still made in Solingen, Germany, but not even close the quality of the new series.

It seems like the "high-end" Emeril products started with his dinnerware line from Wedgwood, continued with new "pro" lines in Cookware (from All-Clad), and now the new cutlery series. It will be interesting to watch the Emeril brand evolve since he cut ties with Food Network and Martha Stewart bought the brand.

the lightness of the knives sounds nice. I have very small hands and fingers and occasiona tendonitis in my right hand, so anything that would reduce strain would be worht it for me. I can't splurge on anything like that yet, but it could go on my wish list. (and I kind of like the handles-- an interesting departure from black.)

I have the regular Emeril chef knife made by Wursthof, the "non-pro" version I guess. I got it as a gift, and I was quite disappointed. While the blade is fairly nice and light, the handle is just plastic without a solid metal tang that goes through the handle, so it doesn't feel secure. It's not really any significantly better than any other knife I've ever had, it just feels cheap.