Item: 3 signed copies of Poulet: More than 50 Remarkable Meals That Exalt the Honest Chicken by Cree LeFavour
Store: Chronicle Books
Value: $27.50.
Description: American cuisine has come a long way since 1991, when the novelist and food writer Jim Harrison's wrote his beautiful essay, "What Have We Done with the Thighs." Alas, his question remains relevant: too many eaters avoid the finest part of a chicken. That's where Cree LeFavour's smart, irresistible new book, "Poulet," comes in.

It's the first cookbook we know of that focuses exclusively on thighs and legs and wings - the best bits, in other words - as well as recipes for cooking a whole bird. So banish the boneless breast from your plate and let Cree be your guide. "Poulet" makes it easy to find unexpectedly bright, fresh recipes for chicken paired with side dishes you'll love. Organized by flavor profile into 5 chapters -- American, Bistro, Latin, South Asian, East Asian, and Middle Eastern and African -- each main dish, accompanied by recipes for a side or two, makes a complete and perfect meal. The simplicity of Cree's kitchen style, her innovative recipes and lively introductory notes will inspire you to change the way you cook chicken -- forever. May there always be a poulet in your pot!
Submit your chicken questions to Cree before this Thursday, December 22. She'll answer them all week. We'll be giving away 3 copies of Poulet to readers who submit the best questions and let you know by Friday, December 23!





Monterey Pitcher fr...

Q - What temperature is right for a well cooked chicken?
A - What a lot of people don't realize is that dark meat needs to get to a higher temperature to look and feel cooked than white meat does. That's why it's really difficult to achieve roast chicken nirvana -- moist, juicy breast and succulent but not pink or wet at the bone thighs and legs. For food safety, the whole bird needs to reach 160 F. and at that temperature, the breast will be lovely. The thighs, alas, need to get to 170 F. to have the texture and appearance of doneness. So there's a complicated answer for you!
Cree
Q - My question isn't that original but how do I get beyond my standard, Zuni-style roast chicken recipe?
A - You buy my book, of course! Seriously. I like to do a dry braise which involves putting a whole chicken in a big Dutch oven and adding stock just to submerge the slowest cooking part of the thighs. This stock might have tons of Asian aromatics -- star anise, ginger, coriander -- or it might have chickpeas, mint, mustard seeds or maybe Latin components. You get the idea. You then "roast" or "dry braise" the chicken at 450 F. The result? A perfectly cooked, super juicy chicken but with an angle. Carve the chicken in the pan, defat the stock, reduce and you've got an amazing sauce.
Cree
Q - What’s the best way to keep baked chicken moist?
A - Don't overcook it. The problem is, breast meat is done at 160 F. and the dark meat needs to go to 170 F to look and feel done. I like to dry braise, or cook in liquid with the lid off. That way you get crispy skin and moist, perfect breast meat. Poulet has lots of these recipes.
Cree
Q - What is your favorite American breed of chicken for roasting? (I live in New York City, so birds that are available in Manhattan would be best!).
A - I'm a fan of the Bell & Evans organic birds. Gourmet Garage, among others, carries them. They are "air chilled" which means they haven't taken a bath in chlorine. Always a good thing! See what you think. (For more on air vs. water chilled birds, see Poulet.)
Cree
Q - At the grocery store, I often see whole chickens sold as "roasters," "roasting hens," "fryers," "broilers," and "stewing hens." Why the difference? Isn't a chicken a chicken?
A - Well, a chicken is definitely a chicken as much as a human is a human unless she happens to be an old woman, middle-aged, a teenager or a girl. Which is to say, the different names you list refer to the age of the chicken. A game hen, for example, is just a very young chicken or one that is fewer than 30 days old and slaughtered at someone around or under 2 pounds. They're also called "poussin" or "coquelet." Then there's the big daddy of chickens, the capon which is a castrated bird that grows huge and quite fat -- up to 15 pounds. As for the "broilers" and "fryers" they are birds slaughtered at between 6 and 7 weeks and weighing in somewhere between 3 and 6 pounds. Bigger, 10 to 12 week-old birds are more often called "roasters" and they can weigh up to 12 pounds, but more often tip the scales at 8 or 10 pounds. As for a "stewing hen," what you may have there is a laying hen that's been slaughtered after her egg production has peaked. I'd call up a recipe for a good, long-cooking Posole or a Coq au Vin in this case.
Cree
Q - What is the best way to thaw frozen chicken?
A - I like to submerge it in water for an hour or two, changing the water frequently. Water conducts the "warmth" much more efficiently than air. You can do a speed defrost which involves warm water, but you need to be right on it changing the water frequently. You should not let the chicken sit in the warm water for more than hour as the exterior will be happily breeding bacteria in that balmy atmosphere. Alternatively, you can put chicken in the refrigerator to thaw more slowly. Definitely NOT on the kitchen counter at room temperature.
Cree
Q - The last grocery store cut up chicken that I bought had the ribs attached to the breast meat pieces. Would you remove them before cooking?
A - Well, actually, it might be a good thin to leave the meat on the bone. We're all so used to boneless breasts that those ribs can seem a bit weird. Depending on the recipe -- grilling, stewing, roasting, frying -- the bones might be a plus. A lot of people believe that bone-in meat is tastier. It will slow down the cooking a bit, so that can be a good thing for the breast which needs to be treated so much more carefully than the thighs and legs. Hope that helps.
Cree
Q - Basic, yet crucial for someone new to cooking with all parts of the chicken: what are you tips for preparing the chicken - removing bones, skin, etc. Is there an easy/efficient way to do this?
A - It really isn't hard and if you're new to cooking the best thing you can do to get your confidence is go out and get a whole bird and go at it with a very sharp knife. I have instructions in Poulet for cutting up a whole bird. Really, just think of what you're doing as a simple 2 steps that you repeat once. Be sure to have a very sharp knife and be confident as you slice with short motions along the breast bone to remove as much of the breast as you can from the bone. Next, remove the thigh and leg together, finding your way with the knife as close to the bird's carcass and to the joint as you can. You might hack up the breast a bit the first time you do it, but don't worry. It'll get easier every time. So much better to buy a whole bird -- now you can eat the lovely meat and make a nice stock with the carcass! Best of luck.
Cree
Q - How does using thighs and legs in stir-fry change the amount of oil I need to use?
A - Contrary to popular belief, thighs and legs contain about the same amount of fat as does the breast meat. Of course, the fat is in the skin. So, I would say do not change the amount of oil, just be aware that dark meat takes longer to cook than white.
Cree
Q - Is it true that chickens will run when their head is cut off? If so, have you noticed a particular pattern or gait that characterizes their postmortem sojourns?
A - It is true. Always. Circles are most notable. It is not pleasant.
Cree
Q - I always brine my chicken before cooking in a salt water solution. Do you have any favorite brine recipes for different types of cuisine?
A - I think brines are great -- especially when it comes to fried chicken and roasting big birds. But for flavor, I'm a fan of open braising as a method for adding complex flavors from a range of cuisines. I like to eat the spices rather than have them so very subtly infusing the flavor. An open braise done Asian style might have fresh ginger, coriander seed, cilantro roots, lime peel, and Thai chilies.
Cree
Q - What's the best way to cook a chicken over potatoes or similar vegetables and have everything be done at the same time?
A - If you use a large Dutch oven and add medium size fingerling potatoes to the pot along with a small, organic bird weighing somewhere in the range of 3 to 4 pounds, the two will come out pretty evenly. Having said that, as big as I am on no-fuss cooking, you can always cook the bird at 450 F and then throw in some well-oiled vegetables to blast at 450 F. along with the bird. When they begin to caramelize, pull them out even if the chicken's not done. Serve everything on hot plates and stick the veg back in while the bird rests and you'll be in good shape.
Cree
Q - We love CHICKEN... I use the basic roasted chicken recipe all the time. I would like to try to wrap/stuff some chicken breasts. Do you have a fool-proof, easy and fast idea for a stuffed chicken breast/thigh?
A - You're asking the wrong girl! I'm so not a fan of stuffed chicken breasts. In fact, as I say, I don't have a single recipe for a boneless breast in the whole book. I will recommend that you try some dry braising -- cooking in a big open pot with some stock. I think it's a great way to mix up your flavors and make a big, complex sauce at the same time. If you really want to stuff the breast, I do some ideas for Truffled Chicken and chicken with herbs that involve making a slit in the breast of a whole bird and stuffing that slit with delicious things. One last idea, you could do the chicken in parchment and use breasts....
Cree
Q - Brining makes a huge difference in how my chicken turns out, but takes some time and forethought. Can I freeze chicken pieces in brine, or will the salt damage the texture of the meat during freezing and thawing?
A - I like the question but I think your instincts are correct. Given that the salt enters the cells -- hence the tastier chicken results -- I also worry that it will damage the cells and thus compromise the texture in the process of freezing and thawing. If you're in a rush, you might up the concentration of salt in the brine. Just be sure to rinse the bird before cooking. Hope that helps!
Cree
Q - Are any of the slow-cooker recipes for chicken any good? I have not used a slow-cooker (since childhood), and I associate crock-pot meals with canned soup and other processed ingredients. But lately it seems that people are saying that the slow-cooker is a great way to cook a whole chicken, and I am thinking about venturing into the realm of the grown-up crock-pot. Thoughts?
A - Ooooh. You've really caught me out. I, too, am a crock-pot snob. I do think it's probably quite possible to make some delicious chicken in a crock pot. I'm thinking posole would be good or other recipes that really don't demand that the chicken be cooked just so since the crock-pot is going to overcook the bird no matter what. Of course, it'll be in liquid which should save it from being terrible, although I still don't love overcooked chicken given that it falls apart and that the breast, no matter how liquid the pot, will be coarse and dry. Maybe go with just thighs? And yes to all those fresh, no-cheat ingredients. Good luck!
Cree
Q - What is your take on the jerk chicken?
A - Well, "jerk" means a lot of things to a lot of people -- just ask Steve Martin. To some it's a spice or a rub, to others it's a method of cooking or a dish. I developed a recipe for a rub for thighs made from lots of garlic, chiles, celery seed, cumin, allspice, nutmeg, cloves, cinnamon, salt and sugar. It's served with Jamaican Peas and Watermelon Salad with queso fresco. Super tasty on the grill and a great, fresh combination on the plate.
Cree
Q - What is the best heritage/dual purpose breed for roasting?
A - Well, you've slightly got me. OF course there's the famed French Poulet de Bresse -- the only bird with its own AOC. Then there are the Silver Wyandottes, Barred Rocks and Jersey Giants in this country. Honestly, my shopping at markets where various breeds are available is so limited that I'm not going to venture a judgement. I will say that diet makes as much of a difference as the bird's breed. If you really want chicken flavor, go to your farmers' market and find the most pampered, free range birds. You know, the ones eating lots of bugs, weeds and scraps.
Cree
Q - For pulled chicken, how long should I let it go in my slow cooker? Will high dry it out?
A - You've submitted the second slow-cooker question so far and I have to confess, for the second time, that I'm not a big slow-cooker girl. I would say that the breast will definitely dry out and get coarse if it's cooked too long -- even in liquid. How about sticking to thighs and lots of big flavors from fresh herbs. As for cook time, just be sure the bird reaches 170 F for dark meat and 160 F for breast.
Cree
Q - Do you think chicken is best served alone or in a dish of some sort?
A - Your question sounds like a philosopher's query with some deeper, hidden significance. Do you mean is a roast chicken, in all its perfection, demeaned by side dishes? Or, do you mean is it better to cook chicken in a big pot with lots of other ingredients and then eat them all together? My answer to the first is that I'll have to think about it. I like the idea of just the perfect roast chicken -- alone, speaking for itself and by itself. Dinner. As to the second, I like to taste the chicken and not have it too confused or overcooked. One of the best ways to cook chicken with other ingredients is in a dry braise. Half the chicken is roasting in the dry, hot oven air and the rest is cooking in liquid with lots of aromatics, etc. I have lots of these recipes in Poulet. Hope that helps!
Cree
Q - Why does reheated chicken taste so terrible and is there anything I can do to avoid it?
A - Hmmm. I think you must be referring to breast meat, no? I think breast meat is usually already overcooked and dry and coarse. Then, you heat it again and it dries out some more becoming almost inedible. Thighs and legs are more forgiving. To answer your question: have you tried reheating breast just to warm in a saute pan with plenty of butter. That can be tasty. Second, wrap a breast or thighs in foil and reheat them very slowly. Remove when they're just warm so you don't steam them. Third: Cold chicken is so delicious, maybe we shouldn't be trying to solve the problem at all! Try it with some aioli. Yum.
Cree
Q - What parts of the chicken should I start cooking with other than the usual suspects?
A - Thighs, thighs, and thighs.
Cree
Q - What is the biggest mistake most people make when cooking chicken?
A - Overcooking. The breast needs to get to 160 F. while the thighs need to reach 170 F. to look and feel done. That means the breast is invariably overcooked given that the breast not only needs to come to a lower temperature but because it cooks faster it REALLY gets overcooked. Dry braising can solve this problem because the liquid in the pot speeds up the cooking while providing some moisture in the oven to improve the texture of the breast. I have lots of recipes for a range of variations on this in the book.
Cree
Q - In all seriousness and much respect to this site and the matter....I cannot seem to make a really, good roasted chicken. It's either too dry or not cooked long enough. Is there a secret that I am missing?
A - Don’t despair. I’m sure you’re not alone. Just more honest. 1. Bring a small (3 to 4 pound) organic bird to room temp by setting it on the counter for half an hour or so. 2. Dry the skin. 3. Rub a ton of butter on the skin all over and under the skin on the breast. Lots. Really. 4. Give it a healthy dose of salt. 5. Put some herbs in the cavity. Parsley. Thyme. Tarragon. Whatever. 6. Put it in a cast iron frying pan and roast for 30 minutes at 450 F. 7. Remove from the oven when the thigh reaches 170 F. or the juices run clear when cut the thigh-leg joint with a knife. 8. Let the chicken rest for 5 minutes before carving.
Good luck!
Cree
What is the worst chicken dish you ever ate?
Well now, that's a fun question. Let me think. I would have to say it was probably a ham stuffed chicken breast with a gloppy cheese sauce that is supposed to pass as "fancy" at a wedding or banquet but is in reality unrecognizable as chicken. Think: Chicken Cordon Bleu. I think I'll be polite and not say whose wedding it was!
Are certain parts of the chicken more nutritious?
I believe the liver is more nutritious in terms of vitamins and minerals, but it's not my area of expertise!
What is the best method to grill a whole chicken?
Definitely cut it into parts. The breast takes so little time compared to the thighs and legs. Next, work over a very low fire and turn the chicken often. It will turn a mahogany brown with a nice smoky undertone is you "worry" it properly. Don't rush it or blacken it. One of my favorite things to eat in the world, scattered with lots of fresh herbs and flaky salt.
I can never quite get fried chicken right - the crust is always off in any number of ways no matter which way I try. Do you have any secrets or tips for a getting a good scald on fried chicken?
That's a good question. The three most common fried chicken problems I've encountered include soggy crust, greasy chicken, burned crust/undercooked chicken. My advice: Brine your chicken and begin with an organic bird that's not too huge. They'll cook faster and the crust will be crispy but not burned when the chicken is cooked. Keep the oil at a steady temperature without burning. Use a thermometer to keep an eye on the oil temperature and don't try to fry too many pieces at once. Finally, don't start with cold chicken. Be sure to temper it. A double fry can make for better, crispier chicken. Korean fried chicken is double fried and it's pretty tasty. I have a recipe in Poulet.
There is always debate on turkey brining. Is it ever useful to brine a, whole or otherwise, chicken?
Yes, I think it is if you have the time and energy. Two cases when I do brine. 1. To make fried chicken. 2. For a very large bird. The science says it makes a difference. Read McGee on it or better yet, do two birds. Brine one and leave the other plain. I love taste testing!
A friend of mine roasts her butterflied chicken over a rack with some liquid. Does it make much of a difference? I would just put the butterflied chicken on a pan and call it a day.
Hmmm. I'm with your friend. Butterflied chicken or spatchcocked chicken is as tricky to cook as a whole bird. The usual problem: the breast cooks faster and gets overdone while the thighs are still pink. A little liquid might make some difference, although not sure if your friend is draping the bird over the rack or just laying the whole bird on a flat rack. I like open or dry braising which sounds similar. The liquid cooks the thighs a little faster and yet you get a nice crispy skin. See the other questions on The Kitchn for more info or read the many recipes in Poulet for this method.
Hmmm. I'm with your friend. Butterflied chicken or spatchcocked chicken is as tricky to cook as a whole bird. The usual problem: the breast cooks faster and gets overdone while the thighs are still pink. A little liquid might make some difference, although not sure if your friend is draping the bird over the rack or just laying the whole bird on a flat rack. I like open or dry braising which sounds similar. The liquid cooks the thighs a little faster and yet you get a nice crispy skin. See the other questions on The Kitchn for more info or read the many recipes in Poulet for this method.
What else can you do with the giblets besides making gravy and stuffing? I would love to use the WHOLE bird in a variety of ways! Thank you in advance for your thoughts.
Woops. My fault. The above question about butterflied chicken is this: A friend of mine roasts her butterflied chicken over a rack with some liquid. Does it make much of a difference? I would just put the butterflied chicken on a pan and call it a day.
And again... the question and an answer this time.
What else can you do with the giblets besides making gravy and stuffing? I would love to use the WHOLE bird in a variety of ways! Thank you in advance for your thoughts.
You can, of course, make a pate by grinding them all up. I usually eat the liver by frying it up in a little butter and giving a good pinch of flaky salt and plenty of black pepper. I think of it as the cook's treat with my first glass of wine. Yum. That alone is a good reason to buy a whole bird. Reason two is that once you've cut it up, you have that wonderful carcass to make stock. I use the neck in my stock. As for the heart, I eat that the same way I eat the liver, if I'm hungry. Hope that helps!
My family doesn't like eating chicken. What's a dish that will make them change their mind?
Wow! Really? That's unusual, I think. Here's what I would do. Follow the instructions I posted on The Kitchn in the comments section for making a great roast chicken. If they hate that, well, I don't know. Maybe they really don't like chicken! Plan B might be to make dark soy thighs -- just thighs marinated in soy sauce and roasted to crispy deliciousness. Who can resist a crispy thigh?
What is the most versatile seasoning to use if I want to roast a chicken but then be able to use it throughout the week for different dinners (ie Thai soup, chicken chili, etc).
Hmmm. I would say just stick with salt and pepper. Maybe stick a few bay leaves under the skin of the breast and stuff the cavity with some herbs. That'll suit any leftover from cold chicken with aioli to soup to pasta! Try a sandwich with Thai chile sauce garlic sauce mixed with mayonnaise smeared on a baguette with cold chicken and plenty of cilantro. So good!
I'm on a tight budget. Should I buy organic? If so, why?
I get it. Organic cost a lot more than conventional chicken. Problem is, you really don't want to eat a chicken that's been fed tons of antibiotics -- not to mention one raised in a dark, over-crowded battery with thousands of other stressed, hungry, thirsty birds. Organic chickens are fed high quality, anti-biotic free food made from grain that has not been treated with harmful pesticides. They are also given meaningful access to fresh air and enough space to move around. If you can't quite justify the organic bird, look for a humane certified, anti-biotic free chicken. They are given more space, treated better and processed more responsibly. Also, note the difference in taste and texture between the conventional, anti-biotic free and organic. You'll really see that they are quite different.
'm with you! The best parts of the chicken are the legs and wings. However, the breast is the best low fat protein. Please help us with creating perfectly cooked chicken breast that is juicy!! Thanks!
Actually, my information indicates that the fat is mostly in the skin and that the thighs and legs are not significantly higher in fat than the breast. Most people, like you, believe it is. If you aren't convinced, cook your chicken breast to 155 F. SLOWLY and then remove it from direct heat. Let it rest at 180 F. in a warming oven until the temperature reaches 160 F. It should be absolutely juicy and delicious.
How can I get crispy skin and moist chicken?
For the moist chicken, look at my answers above. As for the crispy skin, dry the skin thoroughly and then rub it all over with butter or another fat. Give a sprinkle of salt and blast it at 450 F. You'll love the skin!
Is it possible to roast a whole chicken and vegetables in one dish, but not have the vegetables coated in so much chicken fat?
Perhaps the best way to keep the vegetables from getting super fatty is to set the roasting chicken on a rack and tuck the vegetables around it. Of course, if you really don't want the fat, toss the vegetables with a little olive oil and roast them in a separate pan.
What is a clever and fresh way to use leftover chicken in salads, either for sandwiches or with greens? I'm sick of anything involving mayonnaise, walnuts, or apples.
I agree! Check the other answers above. One, Aioli which I have in the book. Two, garlic chile paste mixed with mayo and layered with cilantro on a baguette. Three, Thai style crispy chicken salad which is in Poulet. It involves cucumber, mint, napa cabbage, scallions, and papaya -- among other things. It's soooo good.
How do you keep wings moist when roasting a chicken?
Well, they don't really get dry, do they, so much as burn. Either way, you can tuck them under the bird to protect them or you can cover them in foil. I find that if I'm roasting a smaller bird, they don't burn because the chicken cooks pretty quickly. For a big bird, you might try the foil and let them loose just for the final 20 minutes or so. Be sure to grease them, as well.
What chicken should I buy? Kosher? Free Range? Organic?
I'm all about organic or at the very minimum, antibiotic free and humane certified. Kosher birds are tasty because they're saltier -- brined, really -- but they aren't any better in terms of how the chicken was raised than are conventional birds. Also, see my answers on The Kitchn website in the Comments section as I've addressed the advantages of organic chicken there. (I'll post those answers in the next hour or so.)
I like to buy free range yard chickens at the farmers market, but they always turn out a bit tough and stringey compared to the factory chicken at the grocery store. This just isn't right.
I'm cooking them the same way - roasted in the oven, or spatchcocked on the grill. What should I do different with the free range bird?
Yes, it is the sad but very real dirty little secret of those happy, free range farmers' markets birds. This is the sort of bird Coq au Vin was made for. You might try a dry braise (see the Comments section of The Kitchn website for an explanation. I've posted all the questions there.) I would say any dish that cooks the chicken in liquid will improve your results. I've cooked roosters that got aggressive in my old flock of layers and they were practically inedible! I can sympathize. Do try a dry braise.
I've seen people say to cook the whole chicken breast side down to get the "most juicy chicken you'll ever eat!" But, I've also seen people say never cook it breast side down. So, which is it and why should I do it or not?
I think it's worth doing for a large bird. The breast-down method -- popular for turkey as well -- means that the juices from the cooking bird drip down through the breast, helping to prevent it from drying out. In addition, the part of the chicken up in the air cooks faster and since the thighs need to reach 170 F while the breast only needs to get to 160 F. this is a good thing. See the comments section beneath the Poulet give away on the Kitchn website for more ideas. A dry braise achieves the same thing -- moist breast, cooked thighs -- but for nearly opposite reasons. Do see. I have lots of dry braise recipes in Poulet.
I'm a grad student who needs cheap, but filling meals for my housemate & I, can you help? Simplicity, as well as the ability for leftovers to keep or freeze well is a must. Thank you!
As a girl with Ph.D. who should know, I'd say chicken thighs and legs are your best friend. They much cheaper than breasts and even cheaper than wings -- despite all that delicious meat on them. Cook the thighs simply, maybe marinating in a little soy or fish sauce first, rub with a little oil and then roast at high temp. They are soooo good cold, just plain or in sandwiches. I wouldn't freeze them. EAT them.
Hello Cree! I have a question specific to the thighs and legs actually! Sometimes when I cook chicken the legs and thighs, even if the correct temperature, still have a very pink or purple looking color, which gives them the unappetizing appearance of being undercooked. It's not something that happens every time, so I was wondering if this was something specific to certain cooking methods or types of chicken and if it is something that can be avoided.
Good question! It seems that since chickens are slaughtered at such a young age these days, their bones remain porous. When the birds is cooked there is some seepage from the bone to the flesh. This blood then darkens as it cooks. I say -- don't worry about it. If it really bothers you, perhaps try buying larger chickens. They are slaughtered at a more advanced age. Hope that helps.