We have a theory of jam. The less labeling, the better it is. We discovered this jam at the market, and the cheesemonger practically went into raptures over its deliciousness. And yet there was no ingredient listing, no marketing or PR descriptions of its lemony goodness in fine type on its side. We bought it on faith, and word of mouth.
And, as you can see, we are left with only an empty jar - practically licked clean. We neglected to take a photo of the insides before they were demolished on toast, in sandwiches, and on biscuits. It was a bright yellow marmalade of lemon peel and Pernod, in a jammy tart filling so sweet and bright that we reached for it every day.
The old-fashioned ring top got stickier and stickier, and the diamond glass jar was like something we'd find lurking in the back of an antiques store. We never found out much about the maker or the cook; it's made by a local farmer, we think, and dropped off with other jellies and marmalades at the market.
Is it legal to sell jam with so little indication as to its provenance or origins? We don't know, but we feel that our theory was borne out in full by this tart-sweet marmalade. We bought it with little to recommend it except that tiny hand-scrawled label, and a cheesemonger's good word.
As the farmers market season approaches in all its homegrown glory, remember this little theory and test it out for yourself. Look for those spring ramps, yes, and garden-grown tomatoes and squash and all the rest of nature's bounty as the markets progress into summer, but don't forget about those heavenly products of real kitchens and small-batch artisans - jams, pickles, relishes, and marmalades. And the less labeling the better.
That's our theory, anyway.

Martha Concrete Lam...

Have you gone back to see if they have anymore? I'll take a jar.
I think there's more! If you're anywhere near Columbus it's at Curds and Whey in the North Market.
You should definitely do a post on making freezer jam when we get closer to summertime. It's super easy, it's much less hassle than canning, and the results are spectacular. I use Cook's Illustrated's recipe (but with less sugar) and it's fantastic.
I hate freezer jam, lol. Always taste like ice cream topping, no matter what recipe I use. That said, it probably isn't legal in any state to sell jam/jelly without listing the ingredients, but I might still take the chance buying the blackmarket stuff if it's getting really good word of mouth.
I wonder if you could be using too much sugar in your freezer jam, rose. I use about 4 cups of fruit, 1-2 cups sugar, and 2 T. lemon juice. You simmer and stir it in a frying pan for 4-8 minutes until it thickens very slightly (Cook's Illustrated says using a frying pan gives more consistent results). What you get is a concentrated, bright, intense fruit taste, pretty much summer in a jar. I get the best results when I mix fruit, and my favorite combination so far is blackberry-nectarine.
My rule of thumb: I won't by jam that isn't made by somebody's grandma. I only buy from older women at farmer's markets, and I'm always happy with the result.
On a side note, a tip for everyone who gives jams/jellies/chutneys/etc. as gifts: Sure, keep the labeling minimal, but include a "best enjoyed by" date. I hate having to toss out somebody's homemade efforts because I'm not sure how long it keeps.
Dopelganger: Homemade jams/jellies/marmalades typically last for a year. After that, they will start to get grainy and the sugar will start to reform in the jar. Or, the pectin will separate and the jam/jelly/marm. will get runny and watery. Neither situation is dangerous to your health, just a bit gross. If the jar ever smells, releases gas, or has any off color when opened make sure and throw it away. If the top is ever popped, make sure and throw it away. Other than that, feel free to enjoy your homemade goodness!
p.s. I respect that you only by jams, ect. from older ladies, but I'm only 27-- I learned how to make jam from my grandmother, and my jam is fabulous! :)
Okay, I know this comment is super late (I get caught up on the site on Saturdays) but I had to throw out some info on the jam. About two years ago I worked at Katzinger's in Columbus. One of the former employees came by on his bicycle, and asked us to sell his lemon-pernod jam. He was in his early twenties, and I thought it was just the cutest thing that he was riding around town selling jam during the day and going to punk shows at night.
I can't remember his name, but if you go to Katzinger's and ask for Rachel or Neil, they could tell you. He is most definitely not a "local farmer" or a grandma, but a nice guy who likes to make jam in his spare time.
MJW, I totally accept your grandma-by-proxy argument. So... when do I get some jam? ;)
Thanks for the tip re: "best before" dates. Now, I always make and give away cranberry sauce at the holidays, and I read that cranberry sauce only keeps for a week, which is how I label my jars. What's up with the short shelf life? Is jarred sauce different from jam?
Whoa - just came by and saw this comment - thanks AEG! That's fabulous to know; maybe I'll track him down.