Here's something that should go straight to the top of your holiday wish list: The 7.9-inch de Buyer spun steel frying pan. It could just as easily be the 10-, 12-, or 14-inch pan and based on what I've seen the 7.9 pan do, it won't be long before I add those larger versions to my own wish list. I have never been more impressed with a frying pan and I have to admit that I've seen quite a few over the years. Read on for why this pan is so impressive.
The de Buyer company has been making these pans in France since 1830 but they are only just started to catch on here in the US. Made of spun carbon steel, the surface is highly polished and smooth, making the process of developing and maintaining the non-stick seasoning relatively quick and easy (and is why some people consider them superior to cast iron).
It's true that I found creating the non-stick patina was a quick and easy process. After following the pre-seasoning instructions to first wash with very hot water and soap and then boil a handful of potatoes in water, I quickly seasoned my pan by heating a few centimeters grapeseed oil over fairly high heat for several minutes. The non-stick patina quickly established itself and I put it to a tough first test -- scrambled eggs. I was delighted when the eggs cooked to a thick, creamy mass and then slid out of the pan as if it was teflon.
Another important test my new pan passed with flying colors was the fried egg. I was confident that my egg wouldn't stick, but how would it cook? I preheated the pan with a medium flame for a minute or so, lowered the heat slightly and added a small knob of butter which immediately sizzled. Then I cracked a cold (just from the refrigerator) egg into it. The pan evenly and completely cooked the white while leaving the yolk warm and runny. I was surprised with this as I am used to having to cover the pan to produce a perfect sunny-side up, runny-yolked egg.
A perfectly cooked fried egg slides unassisted from the de Buyer pan
But these pans aren't just for eggs! The carbon steel is a hefty 2.5 mm thick, which conducts heat beautifully and makes them perfect for searing meats and other proteins. I have yet to use an acid such as a tomato or wine in this pan, however. From what I understand, it is either not recommended (carbon steel is 99% iron) or at least not until the patina is very well established. (Has anyone had any experience with this?)
I also appreciate the pan's handle which is at a good angle for lifting, although some people don't care for it. It does get hot, so I use a pot holder or silicone sleeve.
If you've been wanting to wean yourself from Teflon and other chemical-based non-stick surfaces, then this is the pan for you.
It should be noted, however, that these pans are not for non-fat cooking. The surfaces patina does prevent sticking but some fat is needed as well. I highly recommend that you invest in the de Buyer line, season and maintain it well and you will be, like me, one very happy cook!
The de Buyer Mineral B line used to be hard to find but is now readily available from Williams-Sonoma, Sur le Table and Amazon.com.
→ Find it: DeBuyer 7.9" Mineral B Element Iron Frypan, $39.95 at Amazon
Related: What Are the Best Alternatives to Nonstick Cookware?
(Image: Dana Velden)
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A good carbon steel pan is something worth having. They are as finicky as cast iron, but with proper care will provide amazing results for a very low cost.
My cast iron has been a bit off lately, and not providing the best results. My carbon steel Wok is doing great though.
I NEVER cook tomatos or other acidic things in my seasoned pans. That sort of activity is best left to my stainless steel pans. Really, there is no good reasons why you would use these sorts of pans (carbon steel/cast iron) when cooking things like tomatoes. If you are going to do something like fried tomatoes and you aren't confident that your stainless can't manage not sticking to the food, just use a nonstick pan.
Stainless steel can perform admirably if preheated properly. I use an infrared thermometer to get my pans to 360 degrees and I usually have good luck. I've made fried eggs in my stainless steel pans before without any sticking.
Wait. Why use a nonstick pan if you're planning on using fat? I never have issues with my stainless steel skillet for eggs if i'm using butter/oil. The point of the nonstick is to not have to use butter/oil!
I use my cast iron for everything — up to and including tomato-based things. I had no idea I should've been avoiding acidic sauces in my seasoned pans! Thanks for the tip.
mh330: I think for some people using nonstick means they can use less fat or, even if they are using some fat, the reassurance that there will be no sticking whatsoever. Also, it's hard to get a decent crust when searing proteins with non-stick which usually require a very hot, pre-heated pan. (DuPont recommends that you not preheat their Teflon pans, use low or medium heat when cooking in them and, by the way, watch out for your pet bird, which may sicken or die from the fumes.)
The best egg pan I've found is a little enameled cast iron pan from World Market. Best $15 I ever spent. It's enameled on the inside of the pan, not raw cast iron, so a tiny bit of oil or cooking spray (and a few rounds to figure out the timing) and my over-easy eggs come out PERFECT. Honest to god, they look like a chef made them, I can't get over it. I want to give this pan to everyone I know. Plus I could cook tomatoes in it if I wanted, or grilled cheese, or sausage (it browns beautifully).
Just to clarify, you have a pan made of spun carbon steel? The link to the Amazon page takes us to the Mineral B Element Iron Frypans. (Which, incidentally, also have some strong reviews by Amazoners). I wonder if the iron line is as good as the steel...?
Whoops, metallurgy 101: Carbon steel IS mostly iron?! Who knew. That explains the (potentially confusing) terminology swap. http://simple.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carbon_steel
Regardless, I'll be looking into one of these...
Bibliovore: fixed and thank you!
aubreytaylor: yes, carbon steel is 99% iron and yes, I am not alone in loving these pans! Amazon, Chowhound, Chef's Catalog, etc are full of rave reviews.
@romancandles, no need to panic about cooking acidic foods & sauces in cast iron. Cast iron is virtually indestructible & it's seasoned patina is preserved with routine maintenance. Since you use your cast iron often, you are already taking good care of it. :-) I use my cast iron for everything as well ... including homemade marinara, tomato-based soups, stews, succotash, Jamie Oliver's roast chicken with lemon & milk made in my cast iron Dutch oven for years without a problem. If I've cooked these acidic foods, after thoroughly washing & drying, I lightly oil my cast iron down & sometimes heat it in the oven for 15 - 30 minutes. This is also part of my routine maintenance anyway every 4 or 5 times that I use it.
@MyHomespunHome, I'm way late commenting here; so, I hope you see this. I know what you mean & agree! I inherited a similar little skillet from my Mom (Le Creuset in "flame" color) - L.O.V.E. ITTT! There's no sense in putting it away ... it lives on my stove top awaiting eggs, grape tomatoes, mushrooms, sandwich melts, burgers, chick peas, spices, nuts, bread crumbs, butter, etc. Memories of Mom season everything I cook in it.
@Dana, sorry to have commented (so late) on cast iron & not the subject of your post ... deBuyer. I agree ... love my deBuyer pans! Thanks to a deBuyer savings alert on a cooking forum, I scored two of these at Tuesday Morning at $20 off of each last summer.
FYI, Dorie Greenspan raves about deBuyer & offers them at a savings on OpenSky (not as good as my Tuesday Morning score; but, savings nonetheless).
I have always lived in tacit detente with my nonstick for making eggs. You have probably just won deBuyer a convert!