I get a lot of books in the mail to read and review. Most sit in stacks on my desk, eyeing me reproachfully. When I received chef Michel Richard's new book, Sweet Magic, I glanced at it quickly, thinking to put it on top of my guilty pile of books. And then I stopped. And flipped through a few more pages. Then I stuck a bookmark in, and a few more. Then I headed to the kitchen. I had to try a recipe to see how it worked in real life. These cookies? They are amazing, and they start with an unexpected ingredient. See those little specks in the cookies? They aren't nuts. Read on for more about this recipe, and this playful, witty, unexpectedly delightful book.
Michel Richard is a one-of-a-kind French chef. He currently owns Citronelle in the D.C. area. He won a James Beard award as Outstanding Chef in 2007, and he is often referred to as a chef's chef. He has a sense of wit and playfulness, a precision informed by his early days as a pastry chef, and an absolute mastery of craft with a knack for making things sound easy. He considers the microwave his "secret weapon," and he's not afraid to use low-brow ingredients like cornflakes in high-end dishes. His sparkling wit and sense of play come through in this book, his larger-than-life personality coming up through every page. He does such interesting things here, like in his very first recipe in the book: Ultimate French Toast. He basically has you make a flan, then embed it in slices of bread, and fry them. Totally decadent and homestyle, but very high-end at the same time. I mean, how often are you going to make something like that? But you have to respect the brain that could come up with it! This book has three sections: My Sweet Dreams — his own creations, with things like Maple Parsnip Cake and Mulled Cider and Rum Risotto — You Can Take the Frenchman Out of France, but... — with French-inspired recipes like Pineapple Rum Baba and Creme Brulee Sandwich (!!) — and Made in the USA — with his own set of nods to his adopted country. This is where things get even more interesting, as he makes Lemon Cheesecake Ice Cream, and his own homage to chocolate chip cookies. He makes oatmeal cookies with bacon, and corn cookies with a "Smidgen of Curry." He makes the World's Flakiest Apple Pie, and a "moussemallow" that ends up in a Fourth of July tart. I have some peeves with the book, but they are purely editorial. Why oh why do publishers these days dispense with tables of contents? There is no place in this book to skim the recipe titles and contents. Just an index. I really miss the table of contents in a book like this. Also, those who care about photos will be disappointed. There are just line illustrations here, which I found charming and attractive, but not everyone will love them. Regardless of those quibbles, this book is a gem. Around every corner there are classic French pastry techniques explained in incredibly lucid terms, and then transformed and kicked up to a new level of witty creativity.
These cookies are the perfect example. He wanted to do an homage to the brown, buttery taste of the perfect American chocolate chip cookie. So he has you take an entire box of graham crackers and whiz them in the food processor with cocoa and chocolate. Then you mix in butter, sugar, and eggs, and chill the dough. Then slice and bake with yet more chocolate on top. The result is a browned and delicious cookie that has a fine grittiness — sounds unappealing, perhaps, but they are infinitely moreish. They are deeply chocolaty, but not so rich they make you sick. They are the brilliant combination of old-school slice-and-bake icebox cookies, American ingredients, and a crazy chef's imagination. As you can probably tell, I love this book. I don't know how often I'll make each recipe, but I feel like I learn things just by reading each recipe, and his creativity is immensely inspiring. But I do know I'll be making these cookies again; my friends demanded them, and soon! • Find the book: Sweet Magic: Easy Recipes for Delectable Desserts , by Michel Richard and Peter Kaminsky. Published by Ecco November 2010. $18.15 at Amazon Cake Pops by Bakerella: Yummy Mummies Cake Pops (Images: Faith Durand. Book cover and recipe reprinted with permission of Harper Collins)