I'm still catching my breath from a quick trip (my first!) to Mexico last weekend. I went to learn about avocados and came back with an intense hunger, not for food — there was plenty of that — but to return and drink in more of this stunning place, using every sense.
I have a heightened awareness of how many different senses at once can take in a story. The eye, the ear, the nose, the mouth. In Mexico, I listened to stories with a notebook in one hand and watched stories unfold with my camera in the other. My palate was busy taking in the food, and that was a whole other way to experience the place. The eyes often close in these moments.
Without a doubt, avocados from Mexico were the theme on this trip. Let me start by telling you about what it's like to eat an avocado straight off the tree in the middle of a Mexican avocado orchard.
This is Enrique. He appeared at our lunch smack in the middle of an orchard with a pocket knife in hand. We ate black Haas avocados, picked ripe from the tree. They were still warm from the volcanic soil reflecting up on their dark bellies. They were not watery or stringy in the least. Avocado after avocado, these fruits were heavy in the hand, their slightly bumpy skins polished glossy black with a cloth.
I sliced them in my palm, smashed them inside fresh tortillas, then drizzled them with avocado honey and pinches of Mexican sea salt. I had four of these sweet avocado tacos. My travel mate claims she had six. Entirely possible.
Each evening we returned to our homebase of Morelia, the capital city of the state of Michoacán. Coming in from the avocado orchards and the small indigenous towns, I loved feeling the energy shift from agrarian to a colonial municipality, teeming with lovers kissing in the streets, thumping discos, honking Volkswagen bugs, and bare lightbulbed carnitas stands. The street life is so bright here and food is central to the liveliness of the city.
The last day of the trip was a holiday called fiesta del niño de la salud (Holy Child of Good Health) so in each town we visited we saw giant groups of kids and adults marching all in white, waving flags and singing. At the end of the day as I walked around Morelia, I came across these slumber party angels in the cathedral parking lot.
Clearly, the colors are still coming through for me. Despite how short this trip was, I am digesting it slowly. I travel a lot, and often to places where food is central to the culture, but to be engulfed with flavors the way this place engulfed me was beyond my expectations. You see, these are the flavors I grew up eating in Los Angeles; my great grandmother was Mexican, so I like to think these are also the foods that go way back in my blood stream. To visit the birthplace of those flavors is like digging down to the patina'd roots of an old flowering tree.
The avocado — smooth, nutty, nourishing, sexy, dark and bright at the same time — seems the perfect metaphor for a first trip to Mexico. You get kicked over and hooked by the initial flavor and texture, but there is also something so rich and smooth about it, your adoration of it comes gently. I'm still processing the scenes, letting the colors slowly pop through. My love of this country is just beginning.
Avocado Facts:
• Mexico is the world leader in both production and consumption of avocados.
• The exceptional flavor and texture of Mexican avocados cames from terrior: rich volcanic soil, mountain altitudes, sub-tropical sun and abundant rainfall create the ideal microclimate.
• Mexican avocados are available year-round. Peak season is from September though May, but because of the varying altitudes in Michoacán, growers are able to harvest four and sometimes five times a year.
Related: Smart Tip: To Quickly Ripen an Avocado, Use a Banana
(images: Sara Kate Gillingham-Ryan)
(Information for this post was gathered during a press trip sponsored by Avocados From Mexico. All views and opinions expressed in this post are the personal views of the author.)










Martha Concrete Lam...

Morelia is wonderful -- glad you enjoyed your trip. The first time this yankee ever had an avocado off the tree was in Berkeley, and I loved it!
Mexican food is so wonderful, and varies so much from region to region -- I wish they'd get a handle on the crime issues. Your next trip should be Oaxaca -- my favorite place (and amongst the safest areas, thank goodness!) I'd kill for a Oaxacan tamale for lunch!
Your post brings back wonderful trips to Mexico. Watching locals cook their regional foods, is the best way to learn. I especially did that in Greece on idyllic islands with the old ladies wearing black. I can make galactobourrico & baklava like a local.
Morelia is wonderful! and avocados too...lately i have been eating almost a whole one per day. They are perfect for office lunch. I keep frozen brown rice at work and just bring a fresh avocado to mash in it with a few other mix-ins like pea shoots, hummus or sweet potatoes and with a sprinkle of salt it is a perfect lunch!
The Santo Nino de la Salud is the Holy Child of Good Health . . . not the health of children : )
Sounds like a great trip!
I'm in Mexico right now (in D.F.) and I simply love it. My first trip here was to Oaxaca which I, like another commenter, can recommend for the food and much more. I hope to hear more about and see more pictures of your trip!
@Therascalqueen I stand corrected!
I live in Mexico, and the main reason (after my parents, of course) I hesitate about leaving this country is the food, including avocados, I eat them with salt and fresh oregano, or filled with chicken salad. You should definately go to Oaxaca, food there is amazing, and to Merida. Merida is the safest city in the whole country and the food there is wonderful (the tipical one, it's growing and opening new restaurants, but new is not necessarily better...) It's over 40 Celsius down there, though, so be prepared!
I LOVE, LOVE, LOVE this post. You've made me nostalgic for my dear Mexico. And I'm glad you posted about avocados. We indeed are the kings of it (I know, I'm biased, but who cares!)
I often tell people it's my favorite veggie/fruit and they are shocked because "it's so fatty". Whatever. It's healthy and delicious. I've been known to carry one in my lunch bag and just add it to a purchased salad on campus. :)
Let me know if you are going back to Mexico City. I'd love to show you my favorite places there.
Awesome post!!! Thanks for the memories and look forward to more photos and recipes of my beloved MEXICO!!!
Ahhh...now you know why many of us Texans are wild about Tex-Mex cooking...because it incorporates a lot of Mexican cooking, along with cowboy cooking, Indian cooking, etc. I love how their food tastes with all its textures and flavors. Avocados are directly from God:) Thanks for a visual walk through on your visit.
I love Mexico. I live in San Diego so going to Tijuana was a monthly thing my parents and I did when I was a child. The food there and also in Rosarita/Ensenada is very good if you go off the tourist track. I also attended a language school in Cuenavaca, Mexico and that was a beautiful, lovely town to stay in with incredible food. My best memory from there was the family I was living with... the mom made an Avocado soup to die for. I have never attempted to make it but I remember it and savor it to this day... and I stayed there 25 years ago. Sad that it's gotten more dangerous to travel around... the people are wonderful and it's a same that drug lords have changed the travel ease that I experienced back in the day.
Loved the article about Mexican avocados but am somewhat puzzled. I grew up in San Diego with avocado trees in the yard and never had one ripen on the tree. We were told that they only ripen once picked.
@Paseo - Two things:
1) As Hass avocados ripen, they soften and change from dark green to almost black. If picked when black, you have a ripe avocado.
Most of the avocados we get in the US are picked green for shipping reasons. You can hasten the process by removing the stem and placing them in a warm area or store in the refrigerator to stall the ripening.
2) Further: Unlike any other growing region in the world, in Mexico one Hass avocado tree can have two blooms each season versus just one bloom in other countries. Given that Avocados from Mexico are grown at different altitudes (from 1100 to 2500 meters), which affects the timing of the bloom, in one year, the industry enjoys four blooms. This means growers can pick avocados when the fruit is at the right maturity level all year long, and provide users with optimum taste and quality.
The cycle from bloom to mature fruit takes about 9 months, once the fruit has developed to its minimum maturity level, it can stay on the tree for up to 6 more months. The longer it stays on the tree, the more mature it gets. This means that the composition of the fruit becomes oilier and less watery resulting in rich, creamy avocados.
This information came from the Avocados from Mexico people. From my personal experience seeing the trees, I picked one, black, off the tree and ate it. Very ripe, very creamy. The person I was with said that avocado probably was on the tree at least a year.
Beautiful photograph of the avocado picker. Took me a second to see him. Love the abstraction.
Que divertido, great photos. The place has more soul than a 13EEE. I am going to la ciudad de Oaxaca in 4 weeks. It gets in you. Thanks for the nice post.
Ah, the memories of growing up eating sliced avocado w/limon, sal y pimienta, or sliced on a torta, and of course the amazing guacamole. I wish there were more authentic restaurants in the US.
Avocados can also be ripened by placing them near apples or in brown paper bags. I find this process not beneficial because you end up with a lot of "bruises" (dark spots) in the avocado, which makes the guacamole turn dark quicker.
Avocado-the perfect food. There are (happy) nights when my dinner consists of avocado spread thickly across a hearty toast, seasoned with a pinch of Jane's Crazy Mixed Up Original or just plain seasalt. The Jane's is a trick from some friends in Puerto Rico, where the larger avocadoes, while lovely, are deifinitely more watery. A good creamy Haas doesn't need anything added. My children were weaned on avocados (my mother in law was mildly appalled because they are as precious as gold to someone who shopped in the 70's--still are!) My (WASP) grandmother once named them her favorite food in a dinner game and we all nodded in agreement--game over.
I love Avocado. I am making different kind of salads with it. I have never tried Morelia, but I will now.
House
I was lucky enough to live in Mexico DF for four months after college. The cuisine was mind-blowing, the history and heritage fantastic (as many others have said). Looks like a great trip
I love avocados and truly enjoyed reading about your experience in Mexico. My grandma, Jesusita was born and raised in Chihuhua, Mexico and taught us a lot about cooking and how to cook some of our favorite recipes. Loved your photos...de-gorgeous!!! Besitos..
WOW! What a magical post. I can just hear, smell, and taste it all!!! I'm a huge fan of Mexico and avocados so this post is my kinda read.
I am a Texan now living in Tulum, Mexico. I love the country and all the food, especially the avocado. The avocado plantations in Michoacan are amazing. In Patzcuaro one time, we bought six avocados, almost as big as grapefruits, all perfect, for about $1 US. On road trips, our favorite get-and-go food is sliced avocado, fresh corn tortillas and maybe some queso fresco.
Love your photography, the troupe of angels especially, and the writing too.
Im a mexican girl. Im so proud of my country (even with the crime issues, what country doesn't have them?) and avocados. Since the avocados are a fruit its possible make original food combinations (mix with salads, meat, chicken) and yummy recipes, like avocado ice cream (delicious!). Avocados are plenty of omega 3 acids, are good fats and and Vitamin B. Yummy and healthy. I eat them every day!
!Viva Mexico! A big piece of my heart is buried beneath the zocalo in Oaxaca....
Avocados are the best. What a delightful trip! I've had ripe avocados from the tree in Southern California, but not Mexico yet. Now I have the "Avocados from MEX-i-co!" jingle in my head.