Okay, judge me if you will... but my bf and I just got back from Paris and we are *super* planners we were there for 9 days and in preparation we made this:

http://www.google.com/maps/ms?ie=UTF8&hl=en&msa=0&msid=101366573343573409641.000486aaed7a8d1f28bd6&t=h&z=11

note: we love baking so there are tons of bakeries (everything is color coded) We also walked everywhere or took the subway, no car rentals here. Also, my bf is a vegetarian so it was super difficult for him to eat there. We had a blast!! (the hotel on the map was where we stayed)

Check out the "My Paris" tab on David Lebovitz's blog

http://www.davidlebovitz.com/paris/

David Lebovitz has a lot of great info on his website. Lists of 10 things you must eat in Paris, vegetarian restaurants, his favorite places, etc. I'm using his info to plan my upcoming trip. Can't wait!

@drewparadise: that map is a thing of beauty.

You can't go wrong in Paris. Just walk and eat, and walk and eat some more. You will not be sorry.

And I second the David Lebovitz recommendation. He knows all the great places.

Enjoy - I am jealous! I love Paris and haven't been there in 6 years - I am suffering from withdrawal!

You must eat macarons at the Pierre Herme confectionary in St. Germain area.

The Latin Quarter is amazing

also, the street vendors that make sandwiches/ panini by the River Seine are delicious and cheap.

While in Paris last (2005) we stayed at a hotel called Grand Hotel Leveque (a Rick Steves' recommendation) and it was on this wonderful pedestrian only street called Rue Cler. There were tons of food stores - cheese shop, butcher, chocolate shop, wine store, pastry shop, etc. that were amazing. Many nights we picked up bread, cheese, pastries, wine, etc and headed to a park with our dinner.

Also, while in Paris we ate at a Rick Steves' recommended place that was amazing. It was Chez Agnes, a tiny hole-in-the-wall restaurant with simple, amazing food. I fondly remember how Agnes instructed my fiance that he could not have the escargot but instead must have the foie gras. She was right it was perfect. There were locals and tourists alike. The second place we went to we stumbled upon and it was near our hotel. It was Thoumieux and we went there for lunch. Prices were reasonable (we were starving students at the time) and the food and atmosphere were great - white table clothes, extensive menu, quintessential French food.

I love Paris. Enjoy!

I lived in Paris for a while three years ago and this is the list I always send everybody:

- l'heure bleu -- serving traditional french food but really fantastic and always vegetarian options. one of my favorite places in paris. out of the way but worth the trip on the 11 (and really, paris is so small that out of the way is 20 mins away).
http://maps.google.com/maps?ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&client=firefox-a&um=1&q=l%27heure+bleue+paris&fb=1&view=text&latlng=4136546623758413866
hopefully this will give you a map. otherwise, the address is
57, Rue Arthur Rozier
75019 Paris, France
it's off the place des fetes metro [11 line]. this place is fantastic, trust me.

- le faitout -- this is the place i took you and daddy to that you loved.
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&source=s_q&abauth=1e41262c%3AbmzkdXuQaAkHtXH3-r0LNj52gx4&view=text&q=le+faitout+paris&btnG=Search+Maps
again i dunno if that worked, but the address is
23, Avenue Simón Bolívar, 75019 Paris, France
rt off the pyrenees metro [also 11 line].
http://lefaitout.fr/
they even have a website which is in french.

-mizmiz -- really great morrocan food.
http://maps.google.com/maps?oe=utf-8&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&client=firefox-a&um=1&ie=UTF-8&q=mizmiz+paris&fb=1&gl=us&hq=mizmiz&hnear=paris&cid=0,0,4872166307966514656&ei=nK6sS-pKwfuXB6KNiZAB&sa=X&oi=local_result&ct=image&resnum=1&ved=0CAkQnwIwAA
and here is the address:
6 Rue Moret
75011 Paris, France
01 43 38 93 94
this is quite close to the 3 at rue saint maur and the 2 at menilmontant. also an easy walk from the 11 at belleville. someone's grandmother is cooking in this kitchen and you can tell. food is really affordable, portions are huge, and it's all very good and made with love.

- le cambodge -- cambodian food, some of the best in the city. this place doesnt take reservations (you dont need them for the other places mentioned) and fills up very quickly so get there right at opening (which i believe is 6 or 7?) if you don't want to wait. alternately, if the weather is nice, you can get the food to carry out and eat it on the canal st martin which is always lovely.
http://maps.google.com/maps?oe=utf-8&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&client=firefox-a&um=1&ie=UTF-8&q=mizmiz+paris&fb=1&gl=us&hq=mizmiz&hnear=paris&cid=0,0,4872166307966514656&ei=nK6sS-pKwfuXB6KNiZAB&sa=X&oi=local_result&ct=image&resnum=1&ved=0CAkQnwIwAA
address:
10 Avenue Richerand, 75010 Paris, France‎ - 01 44 84 37 70‎
metro 11 to republique or goncourt or the 5 to jacques bonsergent.

i would say the first 2 are really worth going out of the way for, esp l'heure bleu, which is really phenomenal. the kind of neighborhood restaurant everyone wishes they had.
also it is a good idea to go eat oysters at le baron rouge, esp because it is still oyster season and nothing beats oysters and sancerre / muscadet on a chilly spring day.
http://maps.google.com/maps?oe=utf-8&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&client=firefox-a&um=1&ie=UTF-8&q=le+baron+rouge+paris&fb=1&gl=us&hq=le+baron+rouge&hnear=paris&cid=0,0,12299704364868389706&ei=gbCsS_CxMcWclgfq19mQAQ&sa=X&oi=local_result&ct=image&resnum=1&ved=0CAcQnwIwAA
metro 8 to ledru-rollin. (this is in a different neighborhood for a change!)

just to clarify, i copied that list out of an email.

le faitout is a charming bar/restaurant with really delicious, honest french food, good cheap wine, and even board games and things so you can while away an afternoon or evening there. the owner is very lovely and seemingly always on the premises.

The market on Rue Cler is great, if pricey.

Eat at Chartier for a bustling Belle Epoque experience & cheap but rustic French classics.

Stop by La Maison du Miel for *fantastic* honeys of all sorts - their 2 Tbls sample packs make great souvenirs.

Visit A La Mere de Famille for a candy shop experience like no other! Founded in the mid-1700s.

If you love to cook, please please please set aside an afternoon to shop at Dehillerin.

Also, if you'd like to avoid crummy airplane food on the way back, buy a bag of croissants & a few small snacks before you leave to eat on the plane. Your fellow passengers will be jealous. ;-)

Man how I wish I were going to Paris...I've been feeling withdrawal this last month or so! Some suggestions below:

La Duree
75 Avenue des Champs Elysées
Paris 75008
+33-1-4075-0875
http://www.laduree.fr/
EXCELLENT pastisserie, the one I told you about in the office. Well known for their Macarons, but also have an excellent Blackcurrant-Violet "Religieuse". Heavenly. Check their website for other locations.

Brasserie Lipp
151 Boulevard St-Germain
75006 Paris
+33-1-45-48-53-91
Excellent traditional brasserie fare, make reservations if possible, but not necessary.

Le Grande Epicerie de Paris
38 Rue de Sèvres
75007 Paris, France
01 44 39 81 00
http://www.lagrandeepicerie.fr/#fr-FR/home
My FAVORITE place in Paris – this is an amazing grocery store (yes, I said grocery store) that is owned by Le Bon Marche (it would be like if Bloomingdales had a big gourmet market). They have fresh foods and they have packaged foods. I go here and get food for lunch to have a picnic in the park, and also to pick up souvenir/gift items for friends and family (think French chocolates, amazing raspberry and currant jams, etc). If you are in the area, well worth a quick stop.

above post also copied out of an email I sent to someone just yesterday (hence the "one I told you about in the office" part).

You must eat the macarons at Ladurée on the Rue Royale... it is where Pierre Hermé learned to make them...

One thing my husband really enjoyed was tracking down Basil and his bakery from Bread Alone (we've even caught it as a location in a film).

One place we always like eating at when in Paris is Aux Produits du Sud Ouest on the rue Odessa in Montparnasse. It is great for foie gras and cassoulet.

My mother and I would go every summer to the south of France to visit my family and we would always stay in Paris for several days. Our hotel of choice was l'Hotel du Levant in the Quartier Latin (great place to be). I couple of the food markets I visited that I found quite good were the ones on Rue Mouffetard open Tuesday and Sunday mornings (I think) and the Marché Bastille (off Boulevard Richard Lenoir) open Thursday and Sunday mornings.
A place you should visit is an ice cream shop very close to the Notre Dame cathedral called Berthillon. They have several shops in the area that serve various wonderful different flavors (they have some of the best ice cream in Paris in my opinion).
One place not many tourists visit in Paris is the Auchan supermarket located in La Defense. I know it is just a supermarket, but I love walking through the aisles picking out everything I can fit in my suitcase to bring back to the U.S.
Have a wonderful trip!!

Food markets are never far away, they're spotted all over paris. They'll be one local near your hotel so just ask the concierge.

As for eating,
2 restos I go to regularly are
Chez Prosper
Ave du trone, Metro Nation, line 1,2,6
Best brasserie in Paris 10-15€ main meal
You have GOT to try the nutella tiramasu if you go there

L'inedit cafe
4 Rue taine
metro dugommier or daumensil
9€ the plate great french food

Have fun!

I definitely think you should pick up a copy of Clotilde's Edible Adventures (link in original post). I used it while I was in Paris this spring. It was an invaluable resource and lists all the green markets throughout the city. Plus you can find the book for a very reasonable price. Have fun in Paris and enjoy the food!

The Marais neighborhood, north of the Place de la Bastille (Metro Stop) is an artsy area with tons of restaurants and bars. For a tasty lunch in a neat spot, check out the Place des Vosges in the Marais. Bring a lunch and eat with the locals in the park or grab a table at one of the restaurants surrounding the park.

Avoid anything too close to museums. Have breakfast at Le Loir dans la Théière (the doormouse in the teapot) - in Le Marais. It's amazing - try to go during the week or early on the weekends. Locals love it, so you can't go wrong.

http://maps.google.co.uk/maps?client=safari&q=Le+Loir+dans+la+Th%C3%A9i%C3%A8re&oe=UTF-8&ie=UTF8&hl=en&hq=Le+Loir+dans+la+Th%C3%A9i%C3%A8re&hnear=&ll=48.857431,2.360923&spn=0.007158,0.018196&z=16&iwloc=A

Honestly, every place I've ever gone to on the recommendation of a guidebook has been disappointing. My best experiences have been totally accidental and completely unplanned.

Stay in an apartment. Drink tea in your pajamas and look out over the Paris rooftops every morning. Buy a baguette at the bakery in "your" neighborhood on your way home from sightseeing, and make friends with the lady at the bakery counter by the end of the week. Maybe she'll give you a sweet "adieu" gift of macarons when you tell her it's your last day in Paris.

Eat crepes and waffles from the stands on the street. Instead of going to a restaurant for lunch, stop at a bakery that offers a sandwich and pastry special (which usually includes coffee).

The food in France is almost universally good. Just avoid places with English menus. They get their money from one-time tourist business and won't be worried about repeat customers, which means they probably will disappoint. Brush up on French food vocabulary. That way, you can stop in and eat pretty much anywhere and you'll be fine.

One caveat to all this freewheeling: if you have dietary restrictions, MAKE SURE to know how to say "I don't eat.." or "I can't eat..." and to have a good grasp of all the food words relevant to your condition/preference.

O M G - drewparadise, that map is awesome!

I live in Paris and I thought that I'd read, seen & heard everything about everywhere to go, but this is AMAZING. Bookmarked!

Glad you went to Berko (cupcakes and cheesecakes for homesick Americans) and Krishnabhavan is perhaps my favorite new Indian place in the city.

I have some suggestions not listed above, but will have to post later

In Le Marais:
Robert et Louise, 64 rue Vielle du Temple
-just happened to be staying, literally, next door to this restaurant when I went to Paris in May, and I saw it on Anthony Bourdain: No Reservations. For meat-eaters.

also, L'As du Falafel. Omg best falafel ever, and dinner for 5 euros can't be beat.

On Ile St Louis:
Brasserie Ile St Louis, right across the street from Berthillon ice cream. Alsace cuisine, and brusque waiters. Really good cassoulet.

Definitely read David Lebovitz's recommendations - and track down the Chicken Lady. She was one of the highlights of my trip!

Lunch at Le Comptoir de Relais (9, Carrefour de l'Odeon) - more casual than dinner, for which you need to book months in advance.

I loved morning coffee standing at the bar or the restaurant across from our apartment.

So jealous of your trip.

Oh, and L'As du Falafel which I somehow ran out of time for and will have to hit first when I go back.

Paris by Mouth blog by Meg Zimbeck and others.

My fave market streets are Rue Lepic, Montorgueil and Rue de Buci (more for café terasse scene).

Marché Aligre (east of Bastille, north of Saint Antione) and for oraganic Marché Raspail on the left bank, both on Sundays are top markets. Just grab a makeshift picnic, some vino (good wine is soooo cheap there) and head to a park!

Here's a list of all the markets in Paris, by arrondisement, and their days of the week and times.
http://www.paris.fr/portail/loisirs/Portal.lut?page_id=8393&document_type_id=5&document_id=85004&portlet_id=19551

Under the "En savoir plus" you can see a map of them all.

The website has an English version too.

The website has

If you're there on a Sunday morning, head to the Marais on the Rue des Rosiers to a tiny little restaurant named Le Loir dans la Théière. According to my Parisian friends, Brunch is a fairly new concept, but this place is the best. Get there before 11:30 or expect a looooong line out front. You will not leave hungry or disappointed.

If you want a creperie that is a sit-down restaurant - in the 14th on Rue de Montparnasse there is a restaurant called Creperie de Josselin. Again, there is a long line out front and people are packed in shoulder to shoulder, but the crepes are fantastic.

@drewparadise I'm leaving for Paris with my momma next Friday, and your gorgeously designed map puts my 7 page document to SHAME.

Eat everything! But especially a nutella crepe from a street vendor. yum.

In St Germaine area there is the Hotel Lueticia, they have a restaurant that is amazing that I still crave it. Classically french. Next door is the Maison du Chocolat, Amazing! I would skip out on Angelina's which a lot of people reccomend due to their hot chocolate. Its like molten chocolate and fresh whipped cream, it made me sick it was so sweet.

I second (third? fourth?) L'As du Falafel. Dreams. I'm lucky enough to visit Paris semi-regularly and must stop every time.

Also Crepes Dentelle
10, Rue Léopold Bellan, Paris 75002
I don't even like savory crepes and this is still one of the best lunches I've ever had. Tiny dining room, the only beverage on offer is cider and the proprietress (?) only speaks french. But we all get by.

@drewparadise, your map rules! I like to be really organized and planned out too, so this is brilliant. I love bakeries too which makes it even better. I'm gonna write those down for a future trip!

To everyone that's been there, I'm curious if the smoking is as bad as I imagine. I think of Paris as everyone smoking everywhere, inside and out, but I have a hard time breathing around smoke and both my sisters (who I'd like to go with) are asthmatic. So is there just a cloud of smoke everywhere?

WOW, thanx for the comments. And I'll have to check out all the links. I'll be leaving canada on September 23rd to go for a week. As for trying to keep to "french menu" only places won't be a problem. I'm from Quebec and have no trouble speaking speaking, reading french. Also anyone who's going to be there that same week post a comment. We could always meet up then let everyone else be jealous of us when we get home.

@drewparadise wow. your map is GLORIOUS. My organizational skills just got even more refined.

@ drewparadise: Impressive!