
Let me cut to the chase of this book review. Are you looking for vegetarian meals, or just more vegetables? Want to bring more whole grains and legumes into your meals? Want to get inspired by bright, interesting food that doesn't break the bank or stretch your time too badly? This book, folks, is the nearly magic answer to all of those kitchen yearnings. Just trust me, and go buy it.
Here's a little more about this startlingly good cookbook, and a recipe I can't wait to make.
Yotam Ottolenghi owns a group of delis and restaurants in London, England, and his establishments have gained a reputation for fresh, creative vegetarian food. Ottolenghi is not actually a vegetarian, so his column at The Guardian, "The New Vegetarian", raised some eyebrows. But he has won people over with his fresh, Israeli and Middle Eastern-inspired style of vegetarian salads, frittatas, and rice dishes. (We've mentioned one of his recipes before, these Ricotta Pancakes with Spinach and Cherry Tomatoes, and Emily also included this book in her roundup of recent books from the UK.)
Plenty, which was published last year in the UK and was just released here by Chronicle Books, takes his signature style and many of his columns from The Guardian and assembles them into a loose collection organized by vegetable or main ingredient. So, for instance, there is a chapter called "Funny Onions," which includes Stuffed onions and Garlic soup and harissa. There are recipes in the "Green Things" chapter that include asparagus, caramelized fennel, and wakame. There isn't a limp salad in the bunch, though; every recipe has a punch of something interesting, unexpected, and intensely flavorful. (Cucumber salad with smashed garlic and ginger? Yes please!)
The book is absolutely packed with full-page photos that aren't coy about showing the dishes in all their colorful, vegetal glory. They show the recipes head-on; the eggplant dish pictured on the cover is a good example of the style of the photos.
But the real selling point, for me, is that I simply want to cook and eat everything in this book. I receive a lot of books every year and review a fraction of them. While the books I review always have some useful aspect or niche they address (I wouldn't review otherwise) none have induced the absolute visceral response I had to this book. The colors, the grains, the flavors — I'm salivating right now, looking at a photo of Fried lima beans with feta, sorrel and sumac.
Ottolenghi does a particular good job using citrus to punch up vegetables, and dairy to make them feel a bit more luxurious. I think the recipe below is a good example of his style, and it's a fabulous weeknight dinner. This recipe appears in the chapter "The Mighty Eggplant," which also includes such gems as Eggplant with buttermilk sauce, and Soba noodles with eggplant and mango. All recipes I really must try, and soon.
• Buy the book: Plenty: Vibrant Recipes from London's Ottolenghi , $23.10 at Amazon. Published in the United States by Chronicle Books.
Have you peeked at this book yet? What did you think? Did it satisfy your vegetable cravings?
Lentils with broiled eggplant
A most delicious main course for any occasion, formal or casual. After the recipe appeared in the Guardian I received two anxious letters from readers who had experienced mini-explosions in their kitchen. Apparently – and I didn’t know it then – in some cases eggplants under the broiler can explode with a thunderous boom, the flesh spouting everywhere, rather than deflate gradually as the skin burns and breaks. I sincerely apologize to all who had this experience. So please make sure to pierce the eggplants!
Serves 4
2 medium eggplants
2 tbsp top-quality red wine vinegar
salt and black pepper
1 cup small dark lentils (such as Puy or Castelluccio), rinsed
3 small carrots, peeled
2 celery stalks
1 bay leaf
3 thyme sprigs
1/2 white onion
3 tbsp olive oil, plus extra to finish
12 cherry tomatoes, halved
1/3 tsp brown sugar
1 tbsp each roughly chopped parsley, cilantro and dill
2 tbsp crème fraîche (or natural yogurt, if you prefer)
To cook the eggplants on a gas stovetop, which is the most effective way, start by lining the area around the burners with foil to protect them. Put the eggplants directly on two moderate flames and roast for 12 to 15 minutes, turning frequently with metal tongs, until the flesh is soft and smoky and the skin is burnt all over. Keep an eye on them the whole time so they don’t catch fire. For an electric stove, pierce the eggplants with a sharp knife in a few places. Put them on a foil-lined tray and place directly under a hot broiler for 1 hour, turning them a few times. The eggplants need to deflate completely and their skin should burn and break.
Remove the eggplants from the heat. If you used an oven broiler, change the oven to its normal setting. Heat the oven to 275°F. Cut a slit down the center of the eggplants and scoop out the flesh into a colander, avoiding the black skin. Leave to drain for at least 15 minutes and only then season with plenty of salt and pepper and 1/2 tablespoon of the vinegar.
While the eggplants are broiling, place the lentils in a medium saucepan. Cut one carrot and half a celery stalk into large chunks and throw them in. Add the bay leaf, thyme and onion, cover with plenty of water and bring to the boil. Simmer on a low heat for up to 25 minutes, or until the lentils are tender, skimming away the froth from the surface from time to time. Drain in a sieve. Remove and discard the carrot, celery, bay leaf, thyme and onion and transfer the lentils to a mixing bowl. Add the rest of the vinegar, 2 tablespoons of the olive oil and plenty of salt and pepper; stir and set aside somewhere warm.
Cut the remaining carrot and celery into 3/8-inch dice and mix with the tomatoes, the remaining oil, the sugar and some salt. Spread in an ovenproof dish and cook in the oven for about 20 minutes, or until the carrot is tender but still firm.
Add the cooked vegetables to the warm lentils, followed by the chopped herbs and stir gently. Taste and adjust the seasoning. Spoon the lentils onto serving plates. Pile some eggplant in the center of each portion and top it with a dollop of crème fraîche or yogurt. Finish with a trickle of oil.
(Images and recipe courtesy of Chronicle Books. Images by Jonathan Lovekin.)
Straw Mat from The ...

I've had this cookbook in my Amazon wishlist for weeks since someone recommended it to me, and I think this review just might have tipped it into my shopping cart! Thanks!
I live in the UK and I have had this book for quite awhile...in fact I bought one, then received one as a present (that one is making it's way to NYC to my brother). It has become my go to book for entertaining. I love it and love him. We eat mostly vegan, so I felt like I was betraying that in buying such a dairy book, but in all actuality, it's not soooo dairy and it's nice if we are going to make an exception, to make one to use this lovely book to do it. It's luscious pictures and exciting ingredients have inspired me...not to mention the delicious food that the recipes produce! Butter beans with sorrel and sumac and lentils with celeriac, mint and hazelnut have been the most recent.
I love this book so much that I bought it for my sister in law as a birthday gift a few weeks ago. I've cooked maybe 15 recipes out of it so far and they've all been wonderful!
Thank you so much for sharing! I've been loving this chef's blog posts to The New Vegetarian so much and it's great to have yet another excuse to buy one of his cookbooks....
Ottolenghi's is one of my favourite places to eat in London. I'll be looking out for this book.
Ah god, Plenty is such a FABULOUS book. Every time I open it I make something else. Middle Eastern food is *incredible* for food which is healthy, veggie and delicious.
I ended up making what turned out to be a pretty solid Sweet Potato Ratatouille based the version in the book (which is called 'Tamara's Roast Ratatouille' I think) - the recipe is totally awesome and amazing, if you want to have a look it's here.
Ah, I do indeed want a copy of this! I have a question, though: the UK version of this has a padded cover, which almost made me gag. Ottolenghi is a such a modern cook and his restaurants are clean and sleek. The padded cover seemed like an old fashioned letdown. Is the cover of the US version similarly unfortunate?
I got this book a few weeks ago, and it is amazing. It is rare to find a vegetarian cookbook with no agenda, and such a joyful, inclusive approach to cooking and eating. The photography is gorgeous and makes you want to cook everything in the book.
I can't imagine how broiling eggplants for an hour wouldn't result in a call to the fire department.
Sure the book is good but does the review need to be quite so breathless?
Can't follow this recipe. If I cook the eggplants on the burner of a gas stove, what am I setting the oven to 275 for? For the veggies later or is there another eggplant step? 15 mins over the flame resulted in eggplant cooked only on outside edges.
Something must be wrong; cooking the eggplant for 15 minutes on the gas burner, or for one whole hour under the broiler could not possibly have the same result. This recipe does not convince me to buy the book.
We make this recipe at least once per week since I bought this book a few months ago. The whole book is wonderful but this recipe is my favorite. I modified it to add smoked paprika to the lentils. I also tend to use store bought babaghanoush and tzsiki or yogurt an cucumber on top and it is then really easy to make.