A few weeks ago my husband went to buy cheese from our favorite cheesemonger, who recommended this brie. "We aren't huge fans of brie," my husband said, dubious after past run-ins with rubbery wheels and chemical-smelling rinds. But this award-winning brie is different, the cheesemonger assured him. Made in France, yet designed for U.S. market requirements of pasteurized milk and aging time, it's full-bodied and pungent, salty and a little sweet, funky like woodsy mushrooms, and absolutely luscious. This, with a good baguette and a few slices of fruit, makes the most wonderful dessert. Or heck, dinner.