Mandazi to sukuma wiki: Last week I shared five foods we ate while traveling in Kenya earlier this month. Here is one last stop for Kenyan food -- a popular Kenyan eatery in Nairobi that serves completely homestyle Kenyan meals. We don't usually feature restaurants on The Kitchn, but some snapshots of this place will give you a close look at the fabulously fresh and delicious food of this area.• First up: the menu! You pick what you want from the menu, tell the cashier, and pay your money. Most of the things here are meat; I chose the "Chicken Special" -- a mixed plate of chicken. Each dish comes with either ugali or chapati, and you can order sukuma wiki as well. The prices are in Kenyan shillings. At about 78 shillings to the dollar, the cost of the meals is quite low.
• The outside dining area: Open and sunny. Very refreshing after cold and wintry weather back home!
• There was a huge sink outside to wash your hands. The sign reads, in the Kenyan customarily polite way: Polite Notice: Kindly Do Not Spit or Wash Your Face In the Hand Wash Basin. Handwashing before the meal is necessary, since traditional Kenyan food is eaten without utensils.
• One friend ordered a whole fried tilapia fish!
• We also had plates full of sukuma wiki, a local green that is chopped and lightly cooked. It's very similar to kale.
• The ubiquituous chapati. Very chewy and delicious here!
• My chicken dish, alongside a plate of ugali. The customary way to eat your food was to break off small bits of chapati or ugali and wrap it around bites of meat and greens.
• All Coke bottles in Kenya are glass; we didn't see any plastic soda bottles at all.
• The washing-up kitchen was behind us; plates were whisked away the moment we leaned back.
The name of the eatery is Ranalo Foods' Kosewe, and we highly recommend it, if you'll be in Nairobi any time soon!
More Kenyan food:
• Word of Mouth: Mandazi (Kenyan Doughnuts)
• Word of Mouth: Chapati
• Word of Mouth: Sukuma Wiki
• Word of Mouth: Ugali
• Word of Mouth: Irio
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Faith, this makes me miss Kenya a lot! I loved exploring the various Kenyan cuisines, and learning how to make them. Maandazi, ugali, chapati, githeri... Not to mention the imported Indian flavors you can easily find.
By the way, I don't know if you heard the origin of the name 'sukuma wiki'. It means, literally, "week pusher" or "to push the week along". In other words, the food used to round out the weeks' supply and make meals go a little farther.
My favorite parting gift from the orphanage where I volunteered was a hardened wooden ugali spoon, given to me by the manager there because she was surprised I (a man) wanted to learn how to cook the meals. :-)
Kosewe's is actually considered the best local food eatery in the city.
Loved your writeup but note:
1. Sukuma is indeed Kale and us jlipps said, it means exactly Push the Week.
2. Sodas do come in plastic bottles. Most (if not all) restaurants prefer the glass bottles as they buy by the crate which is cheaper than getting plastic bottles.
Glad you enjoyed the local flavor!