Writing a how-to on making scrambled eggs feels like taking my virtual life in my hands. Everyone makes scrambled eggs differently; everyone has strong feelings about them. And some of you will inevitably say that this is elementary! Everyone already knows how to do this! Well, you know what? I just wanted to make scrambled eggs. And personally? I like them creamy, luscious, and custard-like. Here is how I do it.
These are slow-cooked eggs — they stop short of Laurie Colwin's method of cooking them very, very slowly over an hour in a double boiler with half a pint of cream, but they are made in this spirit. They are cooked slowly, in the smallest pan you have, over very low heat. (You can use a flame-tamer on a gas stove to get a really low, even heat.)
The result is creamy, custardy eggs that slip off your spoon into your mouth; they wobble ever so slightly, and spread like fluffy ricotta on toast. They are simply luscious, and if I'm going to make scrambled eggs, this is how I am going to do them.
How do you make scrambled eggs? Do you like them creamy and slow, or quick and chopped up, diner-style?

What You Need
Ingredients
Fresh eggs
1 teaspoon unsalted butter
Cream (optional)
Salt
Pepper
Chopped fresh herbs (optional)
Equipment
Bowl
Whisk or fork
Very small saucepan or high-sided sauté pan
Wooden spoon or spatula
Instructions
1. Choose the smallest saucepan or sauté pan you have. It should be heavy, with a good solid bottom to evenly distribute heat.
2. Pull out your eggs and decide how many you want. I feel that for best effect it's good to do at least two or three. Ideally at least three. Less than that, and it's hard to keep the eggs from cooking too fast.
3. If you want, though, you can also add some cream to help buffer the eggs and make them creamy. (See note below about cream vs. milk in scrambled eggs.) I add about 1 teaspoon of cream per egg, so for this batch of 3 scrambled eggs, I added about 1 tablespoon.
4. Before you beat your eggs, heat your small pan over low heat, and add a small knob (about a teaspoon) of butter. Let it melt.
5. Break your eggs into a small bowl.
6. Beat the eggs thoroughly. This simple step is actually very important to good scrambled eggs. Beat them so that the yolks are completely broken up and incorporated with the whites. The mixture should look evenly yellow — not patchy and half-mixed. If you are using cream, whisk it in now as well.
7. By now your butter should be melted and evenly distributed in the pan. Any foam will have subsided.
8. Pour in your eggs, and make sure the heat is still very, very low.
9. Depending on the amount of eggs you used, and the size of your pan, you should now plan on cooking the eggs for about 15 minutes.
10. The more frequently you stir the eggs, the more custardy they will be. If you stirred constantly they will turn out almost like a creamy pudding! I don't have the patience for that, so I stir every couple minutes, which works out well if you are prepping other breakfast items. You can make toast and coffee and slice up some fruit in the time it takes for these to cook.
11. You can see here the custardy curds of egg forming, around the 5-minute mark.
12. Near the end of cooking the eggs will get much thicker, but still creamy.
13. When the eggs are dry and cooked enough for your taste, season lightly with salt and pepper, and stir in fresh herbs, if you would like. (There are chives in these, which were perfectly delightful.)
14. Bonus step: Don't forget to immediately fill the egg pan with hot soapy water when you take the eggs out! Then the cooked egg will come right off when you go to wash it. If you let it dry and get hard, it's a real pain to wash off.
Additional Notes:
• Some people use milk in their scrambled eggs. I firmly believe that this makes the eggs rubbery. The full-fat whipping cream makes them creamy, but use it or leave it out completely. Don't substitute milk.
• You can hold these in a slightly warm oven, or in a double boiler, to keep them warm for brunch. But they cook so slowly, especially when you are doing a larger quantity, that it should be easy to time them precisely for when you sit down to eat.
• How To Poach an Egg: The Video
• How To Fry an Egg: The Video
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(Originally published April 6, 2010)
(Images: Faith Durand)

















Martha Concrete Lam...

I do diner-style. I just crack eggs into a buttered pan and scramble on medium-high with milk, salt and pepper (and cheese if I have it). They turn out all cut-up looking though. These are gorgeous.
I don't know her exact technique, but my mom has always gotten "creamy, luscious" scrambled eggs from the microwave.
Yay Snowville Creamery! They rock!
I know most people will think this to be sacrilege, but I prefer microwaving my scrambled eggs (gasp!).
The ingredients are the same, but I put the mixture into a bowl lightly coated with cooking spray, then I microwave in 30-second increments, stirring in-between, until they are the consistency I want (which varies depending on who I'm cooking them for and where I'll be using them.)
Gosh, fifteen minutes seems like a long time!
Not to sing the gospel of Gordon Ramsey, but his version of scrambled eggs is cooked in a saucepan, stirred vigorously and constantly with a spatula, removing the pan from the heat every few seconds, with an addition of creme fraiche and chives at the end. Takes all of five minutes.
Boyfriend cooked them this way with sour cream...so, so creamy and good!
We do ours low and slow but slow for us like, 10minutes-15 minutes max.
Like catsup above, I have made these but using Ramsey's technique which produces something very similar looking but in just five minutes. I posted about it on my blog:
http://www.nomnomnomnomnom.com/2009/09/gordon-ramseys-scrambled-eggs/
The biggest challenge I have is eggs sticking to my stainless steel pots. These are so delicious that they're worth the extra minutes of scrubbing though!
I'm definitely not a fan of cream or milk in scrambled eggs... I find it takes away from the delicious egginess of perfectly scrambled eggs.
Delia Smith claims that this is the way to make Escoffier's version of scrambled eggs (i.e., very softly scrambled):
http://www.deliaonline.com/how-to-cook/eggs/how-to-scramble-eggs.html
The difference between Delia's technique and the one you outline is that Delia's is faster; the addition of butter at the very end helps stop the cooking, leaving just enough residual heat to finish the eggs off the burner. The eggs though are just as softly scrambled as yours.
I'm a control freak in the kitchen, therefore I cook basically every meal but my partner does take egg-duty. He cooks them very slowly and stirring constantly but with one difference from this recipe, he uses a large pan. You're able to get the same result in much less time, while still "slow cooking" on very low heat since there is much more surface area. Delicious
My husband never knew custard-like eggs until we were married... now he's a convert. Only, I don't use any cream/milk/etc... just the eggs & some pepper (salt afterwards).
I make them in a small cast-iron pan on super-low heat (the pan holds enough residual heat even if it's turned off) and a rubber spatula - and stir, stir, stir! The eggs never even get a chance to curdle. So tasty. Although, it could also be the bacon fat I use... :-)
I must be an oddity, but wet scrambled eggs turn my stomach. I like them to be very dry, like bits of a cut-up fried egg. Actually, I almost can't look at the picture above, though I'm sure the recipe would be delicious if I liked my eggs this way. Is anyone else weird like me?
You're not alone, Octavia82.
I prefer my scrambled eggs to be ..drier...than the recipe's. But it doesn't make me sick to look at 'em and yes, I've had the 'creamier' version before and not too keen on them (my hub made the creamy version for me--but he usually uses milk--I will tell him about the cream).
My mom always made ours with a little whole milk, salt & pepper and mixed them briskly with a whisk in a bowl before putting them in a pan to cook. But I find now that I enjoy them just as much if the eggs are farm fresh– from the farmers' market and off the truck that morning. I don't need to really add anything else to such fresh eggs and they're so delicious on their own.
I like a slow hand ;-) with a scant pat of butter when the eggs are done. I was taught (in home economics 1966) to add a teaspoon of water for each egg---that the water would turn to steam and make the eggs fluffy. But cooking the eggs that hot is wrong.
I use Gordon Ramsay's method, mentioned above, for cooking scrambled eggs. It's easy and delicious. I'll probably never go back to the old way I used to cook scrambled eggs.
My mom always told me to use cold water when washing egg pans, because it stops the egg from cooking/ sticking. But i've never tried it with hot so I can't say if it works better. Is putting cold water on a hot pan bad for it or what?
i'm with you octavia! ick. i like chinese style quick fried eggs that you can cut up and use with noodles or whatever.
This discussion makes me miss my Mom's creamy, fluffy "strangled" eggs very badly...
Day before yesterday, Paula Deen was on the toob saying her secret is a good-sized dollop of sour cream - anyone familiar with this? Will it make the eggs "tangy"?
I use a similar technique to this but with a few slight modifications. I learned the technique from this video by Gordon Ramsey and have had phenomenal results from it.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AsDj0JJxMXo
I'm in the "drier" and "chunkier" scrambled eggs camp.
Though I do add a dollop of milk and some cheese! :)
I use this recipe for "poached" scrambled eggs from the NY Times Sunday magazine.
It's from a few years back, but they kind of changed my life regarding scrambled eggs. They're ridiculously good and not really any more effort; plus, no butter so a bit on the lighter side...
SNOWVILLE milks are the shiiiiiz! Faith, are you based out of Ohio?
Wow. I've never used this 15 minute method. I might give it a go if I had some time on my hands in the morning. Scrambled eggs at our house usually takes about 2 minutes. But creamy does sound lovely.
I find microwaved scrambled eggs revolting. Reserved only for places where there is no other alternative. Maybe I've been doing it wrong.
@lmrinc and @jk25, yes! Emma and I both are in Ohio. See the feature on Snowville Creamery here (a full tour, actually!).
And yes, you can definitely do this sort of egg quicker by stirring constantly. I do find this method perfect for my morning schedule, though. I can make coffee and toast and fruit while they cook, since they take about 10-15 minutes and I don't have to stir the whole time. :-)
I recently realized that I tend to overcook my eggs, especially scrambled eggs, and mine usually would stick no matter how much oil or butter was used. This was fixed by increasing the temperature to a medium-low and letting the mixture sit for 15-30 seconds before folding. It takes less than two minutes for me to cook 2-3 scrambled eggs. However, they're not nearly as creamy delicious looking as these! I'm going to try this method.
Yeah. I like my scrambled eggs to have some texture and not be like soft like a custard all the way through. Some parts custardy, some parts harder. I guess some would describe those parts as rubbery. Well, you eat them your way; I'll eat them my way.
I cooked these this morning, absolutely delicious! They remind me of the soft scrambled eggs I've had a cafes, perfect!
No more dry, overcooked eggs!
Such a lovely tutorial. I've never really seen such a simple and detailed recipe like that. Thanks a bunch for taking the time to post it.
I have never cooked it slow. I usually had it set to mid-heat and I found it to be dry but that didn't seem to bother me. But now, after reading this I want it try it slow and with milk.
Tomorrow morning I shall eat scrambled eggs.
Yes, this slow low cooking is exactly how I prefer scrambled eggs, though I stir them infrequently: just three or four good turns to make big soft creamy curds of scrambled egg. I think I picked up the technique from an M.F.K. Fisher description; I've often wondered about the Laurie Colwin double-boiler method, too.
My mother, who always makes eggs hard-cooked over high heat, often requests "your special scrambled eggs" for breakfast at big family get-togethers. That's a perfect time to make them, actually, because a big pan of 18 or 20 eggs takes longer and therefore gives a lot more leeway than 3 or 4 eggs. I often spoon most of them out onto a warm platter, then give the remaining servings a few minutes more on the stovetop to firm them up for the few family members who want harder eggs.
These days, I usually defer to my husband's preference for harder eggs. But today I treated myself to a dish of creamy soft scrambled eggs for a late late far-too-late lunch. Mmmmmm, fresh eggs from a friend's hens, a splash of heavy cream (leftover from a bout of candymaking), and just a touch of kosher salt. So gorgeous!
I was wondering what to have for lunch and now I know: scrambled eggs! And just my luck - I bought some at the supermarket this morning.
My daughter usually likes a morning eggwich but she had her wisdom teeth removed a few days ago and is on a soft diet. I look forward to trying your creamy egg recipe. I think she will really like it!
I use Alton Brown's method which is quite similar to this. The only difference is that once the eggs are uniformly curdsy the heat is turned up to high and the eggs are folded over themselves just until there's no more liquid in the pan (and dumped onto the plate even though they look undercooked. It leaves the eggs rich and creamy in taste but not totally creamy and soft in texture. Nom!
I have a friend that puts cream cheese in their eggs.
I basically use this same method - except I do not use milk or cream. I put in about 1/2 tablespoon of ice cold water per 3 eggs. It is worth the extra time to have perfect yummy creamy eggs. I made my scrambled eggs for my sister and she was amazed at the difference.
When I was a kid, my father mixed up eggs with flour and other stuff in the blender, and then scrambled them in a wok.
Whatever he did to them (it was his thing not to reveal his secrets), they were fantastic! Really fluffy. He also used to added bacon in with them - awesome! Wish I could replicate them...
Me and my friends make them this way, we call them "magic eggs" because they taste full of butter even if it's just eggs!
When I want luscious, creamy scrambled eggs I have my husband make them. They come out perfect every time, just like my dad used to make. He's a keeper!
bogus waste of time. Use an immersion blender to aerate your eggs (plus milk/cream.) 30 seconds on high with one of those will treble the volume of your eggs. Then cook it as fast as possible, stirring/folding all the time. 1 1/2 to 2 minutes and they are done - and I guarantee lighter and fluffier than this 15 minute version
I just tested out a new technique for scrambled eggs that i picked up from the last edition of Food & Wine. This resulted in the creamiest eggs i've ever had with no butter or fat whatsoever.
1. Bring a quart of water to a simmer in a large saucepan.
2. crack and vigorously beat 2-4 eggs. Could probably do more if you wanted.
3. Once the water is at a simmer, using a wooden spoon, create vortex (whirlepool) by stirring the water.
4. Dump the eggs into the vortex, cover the pot and turn off the heat. Cook for exactly 40 seconds.
5. Strain the water out of the pot using a slotted spoon to hold back the eggs then dump the eggs into a colander to drain off the rest of the water.
You will want to season your eggs after cooking. The recipe calls for a goat cheese sauce but i just melted some butter over the eggs and seasoned with salt and pepper. It was amazing.
I'm thinking that I might be the only person in the world that separates eggs to scramble them. I cook the whites first, almost of the way on medium, turn it off and then add the yolks to the hot pan. Resulting in creamy eggs with no butter or cream. Wet egg whites freak me out and I hate hard yolks, so it's the best of both worlds, for me.
Use free range organic eggs, lots of butter, salt and pepper in a non-stick pan, and take eggs off the heat whilst still soft.
I'm another person who doesn't like 'wet' eggs. So no milk, no cream. Just eggs scrambled in a big skillet (with maybe cheese) and salt and pepper afterwards.
I love a creamy scrambled egg. This is a great tutorial!
I only recently discovered that eggs can be served in this style. When given this sort of scrambled egg, I actually had to excuse myself from to the table to spit them out. The taste was normal, but the texture was so horrid. I'm genuinely amazed that this style of egg is popular, as the texture is off-putting. I was like the eggs were tapioca ... very custardy, very awful.
I think I prefer a egg fried over hard, or a traditional american style scramble with eggs cooked a bit drier.
For creamy-fluffy scrambled eggs, I add mayonaise instead of cream. Cook on medium-low for about 10 minutes, stirring most of the time.
I want to know how to make the scrambled eggs like they have at hotels! They are so yummy and I've tried different method I've read about, but can never get it the same. Guess I'll give this one a try.
I think Ramsay has been an advocate of both techniques, the beaten, dash of water, over very high heat for all of 20 seconds before it can go rubbery (my favourite!) on Hells Kitchen, for a restaurant quality version of eggs on toast. Yum! Fluffy, not rubbery, not too liquid, not snotty.
And also on another show (I saw it on youtube) demo'ing a technique very close to this one.
I've tried to get used to the texture of very creamy eggs like these, but it just doesn't seem substantial or cooked to me. More like some kind of creepy condiment, more like a body fluid which is just too skeezy.
Okay, I'm the one who likes milk in eggs.... and yet I make the best scrambled eggs in the house. Wet or dry to me depends on how long you cook them - I cook them a little drier if I'm having them on bread, moister for crunchy toast. Cream sounds a tad caloric for home (although I'm guilty of loving it at cafes).
My MIL who can cook (I generally can't) told me off for putting milk in the eggs (claimed it was depression era practice) and then proceeded to make me the worst, driest, crumbliest scrambled eggs I have ever eaten :)
I add a little dollop or two of mild soft goat cheese - I use the brand "Chavrie" for this -- just after I put the eggs in to the pan.
That gives a very slight tang, and perfect amount of creaminess. Probably anathema to some, but I love it this way.
I agree that putting milk in scrambled eggs makes them rubbery. I use water and they always turn out light and fluffy when slow cooked.
If you want an interesting twist on creamy eggs, put 1 tablespoon of buttermilk pancake mix for every two eggs. This was a "secret" I used at a restaurant I cooked at years ago and the customers always raved about the scrambled eggs!
I love the idea of adding sour cream instead of milk. But I'm another who doesn't like eggs too "wet." I cook mine in the cast-iron skillet, over medium heat. Pour in the eggs, then fold them with a spatula. It only takes about two minutes or so to cook. I like them just fine.
I also enjoy poached eggs on an English muffin. Yum.
Similar results to the original recipe (creamy, french style eggs): I use my Sous Vide setup and cook the eggs in a zip lock bag at 76C (the recipe I have calls for 75C)
http://blog.sousvidesupreme.com/2009/11/eggs-scrambled-in-the-french-manner/
Personally I like very wet eggs. I don't measure the amount of milk in mine, I just add a bit and probably a little bit more than one tablespoon into two eggs. I use skim milk BUT I think the wow factor is that I also add tiny bits of butter into the mix right after beating and b/f i poor into pan . About 6-8 tiny dabs. For butter, we only eat Smart Balance butter spread original (less cholesterol). I also add salt and pepper into the mix. For the pan i use olive oil spray. The bits of butter melt as the eggs cook resulting in great, creamy, wet eggs. I cook mine very fast - helps keep them moist. My husband likes my version better than his own and i have shared w/him my secret - include the butter:-)
These eggs are wonderful, truly sumptuous! The only thing is my scrambled eggs standards have risen tenfold - no more dried-up Travelodge style eggs for me.
The most delicious scrambled eggs I learned to make from Chef Gordon Ramsay. His method is similar to the one described above, but requires constant stirring on and off the heat.
http://diningoutcookingin.wordpress.com/2012/09/02/gordon-ramsay-makes-scrambled-eggs/