It's official. Our basil is finally growing beyond its little planter, and there's enough to harvest to turn into pesto. Instead of celebrating, mild anxiety kicked in: this has to be the very best pesto of all time. We don't have much of our own basil to go around, so we have to really knock it out of the park on this one.
Coincidentally, last week I came across an article in The New York Times that profiled a small pesto producer in Upstate New York, Buddhapesto. While the article itself explored the ever-growing artisan food movement and the pains that small businesses face when they begin to grow and expand, what caught my attention were the details of how this popular company goes about making their pesto. The tips and tricks are what I used to make our first batch of the season, and I can report back that it was a major success. I used a basic recipe but relied on the tips below and the results were winning.
1. Rely Less on Measurements: This is something that most cooks aren't going to be comfortable with right off the bat, but upon repetition you're going to start to become more and more comfortable with your recipe and allow yourself to tweak things based on how each particular batch is turning out. Maria Gandhara, co-owner of Buddhapesto, rarely uses hard-and-fast measurements these days, instead relying on handfuls and "feel."
2. Learn to Listen to Your Machine: Many people do their pesto by hand, but if you're going to use a food processor (and I do), it's a good idea to learn to recognize your machine's sounds and really search for what Gandhara calls that "pest-om:" the gentle whir that the machine makes when the mixture has really come together. It's a balancing act; you don't want to mix it too much, but you want to mix it just enough.
3. Allow the Ingredients to Shine: Ingredients for pesto aren't inexpensive and, if you're growing your own basil like we are, it seems that much more precious. So you want to make sure each element is given room to make an impact all on their own. To this effect, Gandhara uses raw pine nuts instead of roasted pine nuts.
4. Choose Your Olive Oil Wisely: Gandhara likes using pure olive oil instead of extra-virgin oil to, again, let the truest form of the ingredient shine.
5. Make Small Batches Most of us, when we make pesto, are making a small home batch for a single meal. Or possibly you're doubling your batch to freeze some for later. As with many things, the smaller the batch, the more attention you can give it and the better it will come out. Even though Buddhapesto's operation has gotten quite large, they still use a home-size food processor to blend each batch because they find it just tastes so much better and they have more control of the outcome. So take each batch one at a time and get to know the ingredients and equipment; before you know it, you'll end up with award-winning pesto, too.
Related: Summer Flavor: 10 Ways to Use Pesto (Besides Pasta!)
(Image: Flickr member foodistablog, licensed for use under Creative Commons)
TW Salt Mill by Wil...

"Gandhara likes using pure olive oil instead of extra-virgin oil to, again, let the truest form of the ingredient shine."
I have to say, I'm a little puzzled by this statement - I would think extra virgin to be the "truest" form of olive oil, not the "pure" sort (which I understand to be blended with refined olive oil). And I'm aware of the general advice that it's a waste of extra virgin to use it in applications where heat would destroy the best (and costliest) attributes, but I wouldn't think pesto would fall in that category.
I blanch my basil in lightly salted water for 10-15 seconds and then shock it in ice water. The pesto stays green green green. I, also, add some blanched spinach for a little extra nutrition.
LOVE pesto and it freezes so well. One can make pesto from so many things: Arugula, Parsley, Asparagus, Broccoli, Carrot tops, Cilantro, Dill, Kale, Scallions, Broccoli Rabe, radish leaves and on and on.
Love pesto but never blanch the basil- will have to try that next time, thanks! I saw that pesto article about Buddhapesto too and thought it was great.
What are some recommended simple, basic, rustic recipes to use with pesto? I'm guessing you stick it on pasta...? But anything else?
www.hsinrusocial.com
@Olive Man, I think what she's referring to is the strong taste of extra virgin, compared to some of the more refined olive oils. Stronger oil taste = less basil flavor, is how I interpreted it. However, "pure" (not pure at all, really) olive oil is highly refined and offers none of the benefits one gets from using unrefined, unfiltered, extra virgin.
Yeah, the "pure" oil statement is a really odd one. While "extra virgin" labeling here in the States has little-to-no meaning (sad but true), the label of "pure" is an even lower quality rank. I'd suggest focusing more on choosing an olive oil with a flavor profile that will enhance the basil instead of mask it. I'm partial to oils that taste buttery and/or nutty (as opposed to bitter, grassy/green, or peppery). If you can find a store that samples its oils, that's your best bet, but that level of service is super rare. However, flavor profile is somewhat consistent by region, producer, and olive varietal used, so a bit of research in those areas can help guide you to an oil you love. :)
What beautiful pesto you made!!
While I'm waiting for my basil to grow (and because I really can't afford pine nuts!) I've been making different kinds of pesto.
We got a lot of lettuce from our CSA so I made lettuce, pumpkinseed and goat cheese pesto. Very tasty!
And greens, raisins and nuts is my all-time favorite combination, so I made a pesto from chard, pecans and golden raisins. We tossed this one with roasted veg, potatoes, and fried bread, which was a delicious and rustic use of pesto!
The Hsinru Social, other than pasta, I like pesto on baked fish (white fleshed fish baked with a simple lemon/garlic/oil dressing), on sandwiches, and stirred into a good homemade minestrone.
The Hsinru Social, my favorite way to eat pesto is with a pile of boiled little potatoes--cook a lot they're wonderful. Fill a ramekin with pesto (my favorite right now is mint, parsley and pistachio), let the potatoes cool enough so you can pick them up in your fingers and then sit down and dunk, eat, dunk, eat--double dipping is encouraged.
@braisenwoman and @BreezySLP, thanks for the replies - I think you're right, the original NYT piece I think makes clearer that pure olive oil is used because extra virgin would be overpowering.
"For instance, she uses raw pine nuts instead of roasted and, to the surprise of some customers, pure olive oil instead of extra virgin, which can overwhelm other flavors."
I make a lot of pesto in the late summer to freeze, from basil I grow. I don't understand the idea that the basil is more "precious" if you grow it, as it grows really easily & abundantly!
I make it in small batches & freeze it that way because it is high calorie so I don't want to use a lot at once. I use the recipe in Alice Waters Art of Simple Food which seems just about perfect to me.\
I love it on all meats and vegetables, in addition, of course, to pasta. I actually think it's best on plain grilled/steamed veg, because with pasta there tends to be absorption of the oil and I have to add more. With veg it just shines!
I add a good squeeze of lemon juice (which also helps to keep the pesto bright green), and use the pulse button on the blender for a coarser texture. Also, use Italian pine nuts, not the Chinese variety.
I'm making pesto this weekend and will try some of these tips. I used roasted pine nuts the last time and it was fabulous. I'm curious to taste it w/ the raw nuts to see which I prefer.
Also bought them in bulk @ my local grocers...bet they weren't Italian.
I made my first batch of Pesto this summer yesterday. I used some tips I learned from a local Italian chef. First I combined raw pine nuts with some course kosher salt and a tiny bit of pure olive oil in my blender and puree it until it gets creamy. I prefer using pure olive oil since the extra virgin has a very strong taste.