The writer, Oliver Schwaner-Albright, goes to visit cookbook author Peter Kaminsky, who has four grills in his backyard. In Brooklyn.
As Schwater-Albright notes, grilling over wood is really just campfire cooking (go take a look at Sara Kate's summer setup), but there are some essential tools and tips. You need an adjustable cast-iron grill to set over the flame and should always use an oil like canola that won't break down under the extreme heat.
The flavor that the wood imparts to meat and vegetables is so delectable, he says, that rubs and marinades aren't even necessary. Which maybe explains why there's only one recipe for meat (a crispy pork belly). The others are for more complicated additions, like burnt oranges with rosemary and smashed potatoes with tapenade.
• Read the article: Grilling Over Wood as a Sweaty, Smoky Sport, from The New York Times
Related: 8 Tips for Grilling Perfect Steak