Here's a variation on a reader question that we get a lot: what basic pieces of cookware do I need to set up a new kitchen? This one is from Mandy:
I'm a young woman in her early twenties getting ready to move out of my parents' house and into my own. While I've got a lot of hand-me-downs coming my way, one thing I have to buy myself is a set of cookware — pots, pans, skillets, baking sheets &mdash the whole nine yards. I've read some scary health news about cooking on nonstick surfaces, but I know from experience that it's the most user-friendly.So my question is, what do you recommend for affordable (but quality) cookware, and what are the pros and cons of various surfaces?
Mandy, setting up a new kitchen is fun, but it can also be overwhelming. Our advice has always been to start small. Cookware is one thing that really shouldn't be skimped on: cheap pots and pans are simply not worth it. That doesn't necessarily mean you need to spend a lot of money, though; you can find great deals on good cookware at stores like TJ Maxx, and even at garage sales! I bought my first real set of cookware for $20 at a garage sale, and those heavy, quality Calphalon pots and pans are still with me.
We are actually going to talk a lot more about kitchen basics and getting a good set of pots and pans that work for you this month. We will be kicking off the Spring Kitchen Cure in the middle of April, and look for all sorts of good kitchen basics then!
But to answer your question a little, for now, we would recommend one good frying pan or skillet, a saucepan, and at least a 4-quart pot with lid. A heavy enameled Dutch oven will do just as well here. (You can buy these for about $40, and I use mine at least twice a week.) That should be enough to get started: add pieces as you need them or as you have the funds. I waited a long time to make sure I really needed my latest piece: a huge 6-quart All-Clad sauté pan. But now that I have it, it's totally worth it.
Here are some past posts where we discuss the best pieces for a new kitchen:
• Good Question: Tools for a New Kitchen
• Five Essential Baking Tools: Pans
• Good Question: Investing in New Cookware
With baking equipment, again, stick to just a couple basics. I personally like the rolled steel pans you find at restaurant supply stores. I love huge baking sheets; it's great to use your oven to its maximum capacity, to cut down on batches, and a couple of these big baking sheets cover almost all my baking needs. Add in one 13x9 casserole dish, and you're set. Again, add more pieces as you really need them.
As to the question of nonstick, it can be nice to have one nonstick pan, if you really want one, but frankly, I don't think it's worth it. They have a short life, and you actually have to be more careful in cleaning them. A good stainless steel frying pan, properly used, will be more versatile than a nonstick pan.
Readers - what thoughts do you have for Mandy?
Floral Drink Dispen...

Mark Bittman wrote an article on kitchen essentials, I'll have to find the link later (got a meeting in five).
I disagree on the non-stick pan. I find mine to be totally worth it. I cook a LOT of eggs and it is so much nicer to not have to soak and scrub and scrub and scrub to get them off the pan. Don't bother spending a fortune on one because you'll want to toss it as soon as the finish starts flaking but having one around for omelets, scrambled eggs, fried eggs and the like is necessary. Cast iron with oil on it just doesn't cut it.
You can do a lot with a 12" frying pan and a good knife. If you're going for the absolute basics, I'd say go with those two things. Take the time to find a knife that fits your hand well because you'll use it a lot.
I agree with nixing the non-stick pan, knowing that the enamal can come off in your food is too much of a risk. I prefer to have a great stainless steal 12" fry pan. If you're someone who really enjoys cooking and will invest a lot of time in the kitchen, then something non-stick is the way to go, you just have to learn how to properly cook with. I agree with Tiamat, that you should start with a frying pan and a good knife. I just started my own kitchen, and bought a 6" Wustof Chef's knife, and it has changed how I cook. I also bought an AllClad 12" stainless steal frying pan, which after introductions, we are getting along just fine. I figure the basics should be of a great quality and something that will hold up through the generations.
Consider what you like to cook and get cookware to match. I couldn't live without a large carbon-steel wok, but not many would consider that an essential.
I also disagree on the nonstick. Things like fried eggs, etc. stick horribly in spite of all my best efforts in my regular pans. I have to echo Tiamat_the_Red's recommendation as well, to buy an inexpensive 10" or 12" nonstick skillet. It's not a lifetime purchase, but it's good to get you started.
Speaking of getting started, I would also throw in the recommendation to purchase a 10" Lodge cast iron skillet. Or, better yet, locate an old, old, really well-seasoned one at a garage sale. Even if it's not really well-seasoned, I heard a rumor that older Lodge skillets season better than the new ones. Use it for cooking bacon, pan frying and things like that. Avoid cooking acidic foods (tomato sauce, etc.) in it. Google "seasoning a cast iron skillet" and read up on how to treat it right. This will eventually become your lifetime "nonstick" skillet.
If you find yourself with enough money to buy a set of real stainless steel cookware, but not enough for "All Clad", then check out BJ's, Sam's or Costco. I purchased a fantastic set of 18/10 stainless steel cookware at Costco five or so years ago, for hundreds less than what a similar set of All Clad would have cost me. The cookware is exceptionally high quality, and I actually preferred the handle design over that of All Clad, but because it's not a "name brand" it cost much less. Hey, someone had to make it and I wouldn't be surprised at all if All Clad created it for Costco's Kirkland Signature line.
As your cookware collection expands, you might want to consider a high quality wok one day. Not necessary right away, and it was the last purchase we made to complete our set of kitchen cookware. If you want a wok, I would suggest purchasing it directly from the Wok Shop (http://www.wokshop.com) rather than buying some fancy dancy overpriced Williams Sonoma wok, or a knock off. The Wok Shop sells authentic woks, and they've got a hand hammered one at a fraction of the cost of fancier cookware stores. And it's much higher in quality. It is also a piece that requires care and love.
Whatever you do, avoid Circulon! :)
(Glad I can finally share all the stuff I learned in my 20's from trying to outfit my kitchen...)
I was in the same position a couple years ago. I ended up buying a set of Cuisinart stainless steel pans (frying pan, two saucepans and a stock pot with lids) and it was a great deal at Homegoods or someplace like that. Look for pots and pans with heavy feeling bottoms - they disperse heat better and are totally worth a little extra money.
I also agree with Tiamat that a nonstick pan is totally worth it. My boyfriend has one that he bought at Ikea for about $10 and it has lasted 6 years with pretty heavy use for stuff like eggs that are a pain to get off of stainless pans. I have read that they are safe to cook on at lower temperatures (lower than high heat).
Other than that, a couple cookie sheets, a casserole dish (which can double as something to bake lasagnas and chickens in), a good knife, and a set of spoon/spatula/ladle and you'll be all set with the basics.
The May/June issue of Cooks Illustrated gives a run down of open stock cookware that they recommend. I guess my only suggestion is to not cave in and buy one of those full sets-you spend alot of money for items that you don't really need. Also, like a couple of other posters, I find my non-stick pan to be a workhouse in the kitchen. Don't buy the cheapest one you can find however becasue the coating will come off. Spend a little more in that area if you can.
another vote for a good non-stick!
i have a small hard-anodized pan that i use for everything and i am SCRUPULOUS about only using silicone cooking tools with it. it's almost 3 years old and doesn't have a scratch on it. i got it at Linens 'N Things (RIP) at 50% and had a gift card so it cost me very little in the grand scheme of things.
Hi Mandy,
A few years ago I flew the coop when I transferred to a university a few hundred miles from home. So I bet this is exciting for you! My advice would be to buy as little as possible, but pay the extra for the good stuff. I got married in between leaving for school and now and registered for too much. I should have sought less.
I get away with three pots; stock pot (you could go for a dutch instead), 3 qt, and 1 qt.
I have three frying pans that I use all the time a tiny non-stick guy for a little batch of scrambled eggs or toasting a corn tortilla, a 10" cast iron (great for everything esp "deep" frying), and a monster non-stick pan that is 2.5" deep with a glass lid. and a tea kettle
Porcelain bowl with lid microwave/oven safe. great for small dishes or sides
I have never wanted for anything. I have more pans that I NEVER use.
Baking: 1/2 jelly roll, roasting pan, tart/pie dish, square Pyrex baker 8"x8" (good for smaller portions), loaf pan*, 2 cake pans*, springform*,. (none are non-stick) (*rarely if ever used, buy at Goodwill or borrow if you need them)
We have been able to make due with this assortment. We make everything multitask. Start with less and learn about what you really use and need. Especially (I'm guessing) you will mostly be cooking for 1 or two. You don't want so much stuff that if you can't use it all.
I am in the other boat about non-stick. I avoid it like the plague. I guess it really does depend on your cooking style. For me, the only skillet I have is a cast iron frying pan (actually 2). I find them to retain a nice even heat. I use it for everything, and cook my eggs on it. Eggs do not stick in my cast-iron. I guess my taste buds are not refined enough, or maybe my pan has been around for so many years it is not so much an issue anymore, but I cook tomato sauces (hope no one is going to say that this is a health issue) in my cast-iron and have not noticed any strong tastes imparted by the pan.
I own a 1quart stainless steel pot from Ikea which I absolutely love. Good for single (or double servings of heated up soup or to make oatmeal....) And the last item is another stainless steel 4 quart pot for larger portions of things.
A heavy base on the pots are a must. They keep and distribute heat evenly. I would also look for smooth interiors for my pots as well (alot of the pots have rivets right through the pot and showing up on the inside). Food and gunk tend to accumulate in crevices like these, and they are a pain in the butt to keep clean all the time.
Over at Eat Drink Man Weblog ( www.eatdrinkmanweblog.com ) the author just wrote a comprehensive look at good starting pieces for an apartment. Generally, some of the same things most lists recommend, but his post includes amazon links in case you want to purchase the items, which is useful.
i went through this process a little over a year ago, when i gave away all of my cheapo pans. i bought a 12" stainless steel skillet, a 2 qt enameled iron sauce pan, a 4 qt enameled iron saucier pan (a saucepan but with rounded sides), and an 8 qt stainless steel pot. i love all of these pans & use them all the time, but if i had to sacrifice one i probably would buy one fewer saucepan.
i didn't think i wanted any nonstick at the time, but after about 9 months of not being able to cook eggs with any success, i finally broke down & bought a scanpan nonstick pan. while i almost always use my stainless steel pan instead, i do recommend nonstick for a few very specific things, like eggs & pancakes.
i bought all of my pans except the scanpan from amazon, read all of the reviews, & found pretty good prices. the enameled iron pans i bought are in the mario batali line & seem like high quality to me at a noticeably lower price point (although i did chip one due to my clumsiness just a few weeks after i got it). the stainless steel pieces are calphalon.
Here is a link to the Bittman article about kitchen essentials that the first poster discussed above:
http://www.nytimes.com/2007/05/09/dining/09mini.html
I followed Cook's Illustrated's adviced -- I got a really nice 12" tri-ply stainless saute pan and then got a good, but not expensive, 12" non-stick pan for things like eggs. I use the stainless for most kitchen activities, but the non-stick does come in handy. And because I use it only occasionally, I don't have to worry much about it flaking.
Cook's Illustrated has a great article this month on this exact question. They actually highly recommended some cookware that can be purchased at... drum roll please... Wal-Mart. I'm a Calphalon girl myself, and getting ready to upgrade to All-Clad, but I was pretty surprised at their findings.
The two most versatile pieces of cookware I own are an enameled Dutch oven from Target (Chefmate brand, I believe) and a 12-in. Cuisinart nonstick skillet.
I also have a small collection of All-Clad pots and pans, which I love, but the two above get the most use.
Chefmate Dutch oven (mine is smaller than this): http://www.target.com/dp/B00113ITXU/sr=1-1/qid=1238615699/ref=sr_fkmr_txt_2_1/192-1954306-4058125?ie=UTF8&frombrowse=0&index=target&rh=k%3Achefmate%20dutch%20oven&page=1
Cuisinart skillet: http://www.amazon.com/Cuisinart-Classic-Nonstick-Hard-Anodized-12-Inch/dp/B0001LO5G8
I got a nice set of Belgique pots and pans for $60 at a department store (Macy's or Gottschalks) on a good sale. It included a large stock pot, a 10" frying pan, a medium sauce pot, a small pot, lids for all, and a couple of stainless utensils. I'm a fan of these since they all have the copper coated heavy bottoms and steel bodies and handles. I sometimes borrow my parents' Belgique wok when I'm cooking Asian food, and they got it on sale for $15. It is about 14-16 in in diameter and plenty big for anything I need to cook. I'm a big fan of the company, and there are good sales if you check the ads regularly.
I do have a non-stick I use for a lot of stuff, and some hand-me-down pots (revereware) I'll use for heating up soup or making pasta/boiling water.
One other thing I love the most is my electric kettle. Or a hot pot works just as well, but this kettle has an electric shutoff that I greatly appreciate. It is plastic, but it heats up several mugs of tea water in two minutes and was very affordable. Super convenient.
That Bittman article linked above is a must read. If you're looking for a deal you can definitely have a no-frills kitchen that has every tool you need.
I usually get All-Clad from www.cookwarenmore.com. I've completed my collection recently. I definitely agree with the sentiment to buy each piece separately when you can. Sets are not a good value.
I'd avoid nonstick, though. You might one a small one for eggs, but you could also use cast iron for the same purpose. For general cooking, i.e. to get a nice sear or crust on some foods, a normal pan is best.
I avoid non-stick cookware like the plague -- unfortunately, there is one piece I have not been able to replace -- my griddle. If anyone can get me a non-non-stick rectangular stove top griddle (to Switzerland), I'd be grateful!
Here is a great article about how to cook without non-stick. People used to fry eggs before non-stick cookware, but we have just forgotten the tricks of how to do so.
http://www.revolutionhealth.com/healthy-living/natural-health/natural-home/health-hazards/teflon
Here is a brilliant article by Marian Burros in the NYT rating pans to replace non-stick cookware.
Basically, cast iron is king.
I find that well-seasoned cast iron cookware is non-stick. You have to treat it carefully though (ours got washed with soap and bar keeper's friend --a huge no-no and now needs to be re-seasoned.)
As for scrambled eggs, I make mine softly scrambled the way Escoffier described, a trick I learned in an episode of Delia Smith's How To Cook (everyone loves my scrambled eggs). Anyways, Delia says to use a saucepan/pot, butter, and a wooden fork to stir constantly. You take it off the heat while still somewhat runny, keep scrambling, and stir in cold butter to stop the cooking. You won't get any sticky messes.
Get a couple of sizes of good cast iron (with comfortable handles) pans. I find the All Clad starter sets pretty well selected -- the 10 piece stainless set with
- 10-in Fry Pan
- 8-in Fry Pan
- 1.5 qt Sauce Pan with Lid
- 3.5 qt Sauce Pan with Lid
- 5 qt Saute Pan with Lid
- 8 qt Tall Stock Pot with Lid
http://www.kitchenu.com/shop/product.aspx?ref=froogle&sku=4634#description
will see you through almost everything, along with your cast iron and a good enamel dutch oven (and grill pan). Use these pieces every day at least once! (I make 3 meals a day... *sigh*)
We got a great deal on ours, having found it on sale.
Oops -- here is the Marian Burro article (VERY useful!):
http://www.nytimes.com/2006/06/07/dining/07pans.html?_r=1&scp=1&sq=marian%20burros%20teflon&st=cse
I would like to second those who mentioned Costco. I have a set of their nonstick Kirkland brand pots and pans and they're great. Between that and my cast iron skillet, I'm covered. I would suggest investing in a decent cookie sheet, and then get some Pyrex pans- 9x13, 8x8, pie plate, and a loaf pan. That covers the essentials. I believe Target has a covered Pyrex set on sale this week for $17
I highly recommend the Fagor duo combi set below, especially if 1) you're strapped for space and need quality cookware that does double, sometimes triple, duty, and 2) eat meat (I don't).
I have this set. I love love love it. Each pot can be used to pressure cook, and can be used as regular everyday pots. I use both for boiling pasta, depending on the shape of pasta, and I use the smaller (4 qt) pot for cooking rice, simmering tomato sauces, among other things (not under pressure).
For meat eaters, the pressurizing options offer endless opportunities to make meat-based meals quickly.
http://www.amazon.com/Fagor-Combi-5-Piece-Pressure-Cooker/dp/B00023D9S0/ref=pd_bbs_sr_1?ie=UTF8&
s=home-garden&qid=1238628820&sr=8-1
I also agree with the comments regarding cast iron. I love cast iron and prefer it to non-stick. However, it's been my experience that you have to be careful not to use acidic foods, like tomatoes, or else you will strip the seasoning.
I also have a le creuset dutch oven and a 12 inch all-clad skillet, along with a ton of other cookware.
I cook almost exclusively with the 2 fagor pots, an 8" cast iron skillet, the 12" all clad skillet, and the dutch oven - a total of 5 pieces.
My basics include:
14" All-Clad stainless fry pan
7" Non-stick Restaurant grade pan
5.5 qt La Crueset Dutch Oven
14" Calphalon Wok
Large (8qt?) Stainless 3 Ply Stock Pot
After that:
2.5 Enameled Cast Iron Dutch Oven
4 qt Stainless Pot
12" Calphalon Aluminum Fry Pan
I've chosen to go with quality over quantity- and given my tiny house, this collection is pretty well saturated, and frankly, there's not much else I find myself needing.
Good Luck.
I'd go for stainless steel from a restaurant supply store if I were to start from scrach. It will be higher quality for a much lower price than you can get at a department or kitchen store. That's where I buy my pots and pans now, though the IKEA 365 pots that I have had since university are still working great.
Here are the pots/pans I have:
-1 small stainless steel high-sided roasting pan (good for a duck, chicken, or pork roast, hand-me-down)
-1 cast iron frying pan (medium, $10 from Canadian Tire)
-1 stainless steel saute pan with lid (large, from resto supply store)
-1 small teflon frying pan (1-egg size, from university days)
-5 pots with lids (small saucepan, medium pot, large pasta pot from the IKEA 365 line, 1 other medium pot, 1 large stainless steel stock pot (resto supply store))
-metal bowl that fits into one of the pots for a double boiler
-2 large baking sheets (half sheet aluminum pans from the resto supply store)
-1 small baking sheet (quarter sheet pan, again resto supply)
For a starter kitchen, you can probably ditch the roasting pan (I use the cast iron pan sometimes still to do roasts) and the tiny frying pan, have just one baking sheet, and have only 3 pots (the stock pot is HUGE and only necessary if you make a lot of stock or preserves). I had just the 3 ikea pots for a LONG time and was fine. I've even done the no-knead bread thing in the stainless steel pasta pot. You don't always need "just the right pan" for things to work out fine.
So I'd suggest 3 stainless steel pots (with thick bottoms) of assorted sizes, 1 baking sheet, 1 cast iron frying pan, 1 large stainless steel frying pan (with lid).
Another vote for cast iron and against nonstick. You can probably find pyrex pieces (pie plates, casserole dishes, etc) very, very cheap at thrift stores or garage sales, or free on craigslist.
SoSue: cooking tomato sauce in cast iron is GOOD! The acid from the tomatoes leeches some of the iron as it cooks, which adds iron to your sauce. Tomatoes have vitamin C, which helps with iron absorption.
definitely start small. keep track of what you 'wish you had' and how often to determine if you really need it.
I have a couple non-stick pans and I can't wait to get rid of them, (when they're good and worn out). I honestly have no use for them, (though I don't cook eggs). I've never cooked anything that didn't come off easily from a normal pan with some steel wool. also, if you have roommates, someone will inevitably scratch up your non-stick.
to be perfectly honest, you can get by for quite a while with 'cheap' pans for everyday cooking, (my parents had a set of farberware for at least 10 years, and my brother took it over since). however, in the spirit of consuming less and trying to avoid buying something twice unnecessarily because you skimped the first time around, (like when I got nonstick instead of cast iron), it is better to invest in something you really love and will for a long time. if you're not really happy with what you buy now, you'll be much more likely to replace it before you really need to.
In case nobody reads the Marian Burros article I linked to, the upshot of it is that All-Clad performed poorly with respect to sticking and eggs (I'll second that -- I used mine for other things), cast iron was great, but she fell in LOVE with Le Creuset with the black interior finish, which is baked at a higher temp than the white interior, and can thus withstand higher temps. It is fairly non-stick with even just the lightest swipe of oil, is non-reactive, and is even easier to care for than cast iron, with no seasoning issues.
Check it out:
http://www.lecreuset.com/en-us/Product-Range/Enameled-Cast-Iron/Skillets--Grills/
If you hunt at garage sales, etc., you may come across Michael Lax enameled iron for Copco. There were several colours, the black being more popular in Europe (especially Denmark).
http://cgi.ebay.com/Copco-Michael-Lax-60s-RARE-Black-2.5-qt-Casserole-Pan_W0QQitemZ400036706892QQcmdZViewItemQQimsxZ20090313?IMSfp=TL090313138002r7821
http://www.designaddict.com/design_index/index.cfm/fuseaction/producer_show_one/PRODUCER_ID/38/
http://www.modcats.com/item.php?item=571&from=objects-other.php
The lids are great, as it makes it easy to slip these casseroles into the oven, and they can double as a serving surface.
And there were great frying pans too (there were also ones with teak handles):
http://kitkadesigntoronto.com/?p=846
Something to consider, anyway.
Costco all the way, great pans great price. They were they first set I bought, and I still have them 5 years later.
Hi, this is Mandy -- thanks so much to everyone for the fantastic guidance!
I was thinking I'd buy a set, but after reading your recommendations, I think I'll buy my pieces individually. And I'll put more consideration into cast iron. I'm encouraged after hearing you love it so much. Thanks!