Here's another baking question from reader Caroline. Can you help her?
I've come across a seemingly unanswerable question, and I thought I'd hit you guys up to see if you have any suggestions for me. I made snickerdoodles for my friend's wedding two summers ago in San Francisco. They were my ideal snickerdoodle. Soft on the inside, Crunchy outside, and not flat. They stayed in fairly round little balls. However, EVERY time i've made them since, they flatten out. I've tried them big and small. Same problem, no matter what. I can't seem to make them stay anywhere near ball form.
I live in Salt Lake City, and i'm wondering if it's an altitude thing? do you have any ideas for me? I'm dying for the perfect, round snickerdoodle again!
Any good recipes or ideas for Caroline? We do not have a good snickerdoodle recipe right now, so we're going to throw this out to everyone else!
Related: Food Science: Egg Substitutions in Cookies and Brownies
(Image: Flickr member wentongg licensed for use under Creative Commons)
Martha Concrete Lam...

I'd heard somewhere that it has to do with how long the cookies are baked (which could have something to do with altitude/oven temps). In order for them to stay even semi-round on the top rather than flat and crinkly, they have to be underbaked. I've tried--some turned out round, others flat. Maybe the oven you used before was below the proper temperature, so each batch was perfectly undercooked :)
be sure that you are using FRESH baking soda. I know it might sound weird, but if you use flat baking soda from an already opened box the snickerdoodles become little flat disks instead of perfectly poofy. Hope this helps!
I've found that adding a little extra flour to the dough helps keep cookies from spreading out so much.
Here's something I discovered: What kind of cookie sheet are you using? If you're using the airbake ones (I love mine!) they can make your cookies spread too far and get flat, so you might try using the regular flat kind. Same goes for if you're using parchment paper, it can insulate and cause spreading.
Test your oven temperature! Mine is about 15* cool... sometimes. So be sure to have a thermometer in your oven to check just before you put your cookies in. Also, letting your oven preheat for a little extra time can help even the temperature, and make things bake a little bit better.
Do you use an electric mixer? This can incorporate a lot of air into your cookies, causing them to flatten more.
If all else fails, try chilling your dough balls for a bit before they go into the oven. That way, the outside cooks and gets all crisp, but the inside stays soft, because it cooks more slowly.
Good luck!
I am in denver, so our altitudes are probably similar, or at least more so than between SLC and SF
I onetime made "lower fat" snicker doodles for some guests that were on a diet, they stayed like big poufs instead of flat cookies, i dont remember what recipe i followed but i used "light" butter (land-o-lakes light 50% less fat) and egg beaters (which i believe is mostly egg whites) instead of traditional egg and butter. I have made snickerdoodles before and it was the first and only time they did that, i can only guess it was the butter and egg difference.
also i did chill the dough considerably long that time, i made the dough then baked the cookies right before they arrived, so it might have been that, too.
I have found if you put them in the fridge overnight, and then form them into balls while the dough is still cool? They maintain their shape better.
I underbake them just a bit and then pull them out of the oven and let them sit on the cookie sheet for a few minutes to finish up. If I get them out at just the right turn they turn out crisp on the outside and soft in the center even though they flatten out.
I think if you want to maintain the round shape you'll need more flour.
My kids will thank you for this question as I think I'll go whip some up for their after school snack. Snickerdoodles are their favorite.
Try using Cream of Tartar to give the cookies the lift they are missing. That should do the trick.
Cheers,
~ Paula
Maybe try chilling the dough in ball form before baking? And definitely skip the air-bakes if you're using them. I had a problem with my chocolate chip cookies spreading too much and that was the problem.
I think chilling the dough makes a big difference, the butter seems to hold the cookie together better when it is cold - when I skip the chilling step my cookies generally turn out much flatter. I have found this with other recipes but I think I have done it with snickerdoodles too.
I did a similar thing to the 'light butter' answer. I wanted a lighter fluffier snickerdoodle, so I cut the butter and shortening in my recipe by 2/3. Then, if the mix is too dry, I just add a touch of water. I've found without as much fat in the mix, they spread less and puff more.... mmmm. Man, I love snickerdoodles SOOOO much.
I just checked out Shirley Corriher's (sp?) BakeWise from the library. Haven't delved too far in, but I did poke around enough to learn that butter has a lower melting point than shortening, hence cookies made with butter will flatten out sooner than those made with shortening.
Did you let the dough sit for a little while the time they came out round? Maybe you were distracted by something else?
I don't bake much at home, but I worked in a bakery and if we were busy and didn't get the cookies in the oven right after we shaped them they seemed to stay taller. We didn't stick the dough in the fridge, just left the shaped ones sitting on the rack for 10-15 minutes before we finished them all.
I'm not sure if cookies can 'rise' like bread but it looked similar.
Good luck, I LOVE snickerdoodles.
Veering a little way off the path: I keep seeing recipes for snickerdoodle muffins. Maybe something in a mini muffin tin, whether you stick with the cookie recipe or modify it toward the muffin recipe?
I would bet my Joy of Cooking that the difference was the altitude. I highly doubt anything else contributed as much as that fact. Having baked in Reno and in Denver, I can say that I can almost never make a cookie recipe straight from the page. They ALWAYS flatten out too much (just like you describe). I haven't tried snickerdoodle balls, but in general, I usually cut the sugar and butter (sometimes I just short it a little, but butter I will leave out several tablespoons) and increase the flour. There are many other tricks, but those are my go-to starters.
Most good baking books at least have a section on high-altitude baking. The altitude and the dryness definitely take a toll on cookies, so reading a little bit about how to counter their effects can give you some ideas. Unfortunately, there is no fool-proof way to adjust!
I'm in SLC too. I always chill my snickerdoodles very well. Also, I usually cut down the butter and sugar a little. When I'm doing cookies, I don't cut down on the baking soda like I do when baking cakes, but I do typically mix it straight into the butter/sugar mix instead of mixing it with the flour first. That may have an effect, as the baking soda starts to react as soon as it is in contact with liquids. I have yet to find a really good reference source on high altitude baking, so it's hit and miss generally.
The bakery was probably a nasty bakery hygronated fat. They spread less than soft butter. Maybe there was a bit of butter for flavor.
Assuming you are making yours with delicous butter, child the batter after mixing and chill again after forming. This will help a lot.
That's how I like my snickerdoodles, too! This recipe makes spherical cookies like in the picture. http://www.recipe4living.com/Recipe/58840-Snickerdoodles.aspx
Sara Jane is right........butter makes cookies spread out more. Margarine makes thicker cookies.
I also vote for chilling the dough, AND the cookie sheet.
Salt Lake City is a little lower than Albuquerque (where I am.) I've never had to change a cookie recipe ingredient wise, but I would suggest raising your oven temperature 25 degrees, baking the cookies less time, and baking in the middle or top third of the oven. I have found that alternating pans between two racks doesn't work at high altitude. The cookies flatten.
You might also want to use a recipe that uses shortening and butter, not just butter. Butter does tend to spread more. I use organic palm shortening since it doesn't contain trans fats.
Thanks you guys! I've tried the undercooking and a few of those suggestions, but I will try the refrigeration, more flour, less butter, and a few of the other ones. I won't rest until i get cookie balls! My friend also sent me some altitude suggestions and is picking me up an oven thermometer. I will also check out the recipe you posted, suzyblue.
Thanks again! I will probably be test baking all week!
yet another vote for chilling. My new technique is to make the dough, wrap in plastic wrap, chill in the fridge and then roll them into balls, minus the cinnamon-sugar. Then I flash freeze them on a pan for a few hours, pop them off into a ziploc bag and store in the freezer. Heat your oven when you want snickerdoodles, now roll in the sugar mix and bake at 325 with an oven thermometer to check. Watch until they barely buckle under a light touch of your finger and pull them out. They are that perfect crispy edged, soft inside and fluffy cookie you crave! I was so excited since they are my favorites and I hate when they are too flat or crispy.
I like this technique for a lot of my cookies since if there are cookies baked I eat them, but if they are frozen and I have to heat up the oven to get them? Much less likely to intake those calories. Also handy when you know someone (like a long distance boyfriend) is coming to town and then you don't have to deal with making dough and rolling a ball of dough to have boyfriend-pleasing fresh baked cookies! :)