Why does it feel so hard to make a good veggie burger at home? So many recipes end up bland and unexciting, no matter how hard we try. It’s high time we called in an expert.
Lukas Volger, author of Veggie Burgers Every Which Way, was on the Splendid Table last week sharing some lessons from his book. Here are his big tips for making a better veggie burger:
1. Focus on the Protein - We’ve noticed many veggie burgers just tend to mash together a bunch of different vegetables, resulting in muddled flavors and textures. Volger’s advice is to pick one or two main ingredients and focus on those. That can mean anything from chickpeas to eggplant as long as you make it the star.
2. Don’t Forget a Binder - This is what holds the burger together, a common problem with veggie burgers. Volger is a fan of a basic egg and breadcrumb binder. For vegan burgers, he recommends steaming and mashing a potato, then folding it into the main ingredients.
3. Go Bold with the Flavors - So many veggie burgers fall short in the flavor department. Volger’s solution is simply to go bigger and bolder with the flavorings. Use fresh herbs and spices - and more of them than you think you might need. Think about incorporating other ingredients with intense flavors, like roasted tomatoes.
4. Remember the Toppings - Forget iceberg lettuce and ketchup. Veggie burgers are best with strongly seasoned toppings, like pickled onions, olive tapenade, and spicy relishes. We’d add a slice or two of strong cheese to that list!
When it comes time to actually cook the burgers, Volger has a particular method he prefers. He recommends searing the veggie burger over high heat on the stovetop and then finishing it off in the oven. This way you add even more flavor in the form of a crispy crust, and the inside still cooks perfectly.
What advice do you have for building a better veggie burger?
• Hear the Whole Interview: Veggie Burgers with Lukas Volger on the Splendid Table
Related: 25 Vegetarian and Vegan Meals: Best of 2009
(Image: Beet and Bean Veggie Burger / Emma Christensen)
Straw Mat from The ...

what's in the one in the picture?
I find that cooking the patty in a skillet with a little olive oil keeps it from getting dry. My favorite frozen veggie patties are still the Gardenburger original.
I would do almost anything to be able to recreate the recipe for the Planet Burger from the Good Earth restaurant...
My most successful batch of veggie burgers included finely ground smoked almonds --- just enough to give the burgers a deep, rich flavor without overwhelming them with smoky or nutty notes. Mmm, they were great.
@goje - the burger in the picture is our Beet and Bean Burger (a reproduction of Northstar's Veggie Burger)!
I've made many, many veggie burgers over the years. My fave is from Veganamicon, the black bean burger. My whole family LOVES it. Agree on forget the ketchup: mustard, chipotle mayo, aioli, guacamole--these are happier toppings.
Personally, I don't put lots of "veggies" in my veggie burgers. Beans are the base for me, always. Season thy beans and all will be well. Think of a falafel patty as a model--would you add eggplant, beets, corn? You're just going to muddle it up and the patty is going to fall apart when you cook it. Those veggies are SIDE DISHES, people.
My favorite way to heat veggie burgers is to brush them with a tiny bit of olive oil and then grill them in my George Foreman. Oh yes. As for sauce, I love a combination of Annie's Goddess dressing mixed with a flavorful hot sauce, like Dessert Pepper XXX. Also, don't underestimate the power of a good bun! I keep a bag of ciabatta rolls in the freezer and toast them (with just a touch of olive oil). Kaiser rolls can be great, too.
I am coming VERY VERY close to recreating the Northstar burger (the one pictured). My method for creating the perfect veggie burger (lots of practice here!) is to watch out for adding too much more wet ingredients like egg and other flavorless ingredients. I use oat bran for the binder and I treat eat and every individual ingredient with tons of care and attention to detail and flavor.
I also put them in a ring mold so they stay the same size, flash freeze them, and then grill them in the hottest freakin' grill! Perfect!
Also a great tip if you're not into going all out on every ingredient, is to get a jar a chutney...this adds a lot of depth to the flavor.
I'll be doing my own blog post soon after I get my secret weapon for the veggie burger so stay tuned!
My boyfriend and I stand by this recipe : http://www.loveandoliveoil.com/2008/08/ultimate-veggie-burger.html it hasn't failed us yet! (we now put a carrot and some corn in as wel) -- our favorite toppings are sprouts, avocados, white cheddar, bbq sauce
we also like this one to spice things up: http://gourmettraveller.com.au/indian_vegie_burgers.htm?rcid=2424&mode=rcid
Searing and baking! Yes! I can attest to that. It really is the best method if you want a good crispy outside and a cooked-through inside without burning your burger.
I'm hugely fond of our adaptation of this red lentil walnut burger. The red lentils are hearty but not heavy, a bit of oatmeal binds it, and it's spiced somewhat like a falafel. I make double batches and keep extras in the freezer for a great instameal.
wheat gluten is a great veggie burger binder. Opt for some chickpea flour and a bit of starch if you can't have gluten. My favorite veggie burgers are made of my leftover, cold chipotle/sweet potato/corn chili, kneaded with some gluten, panfried, and topped with cilantro sour cream (from Veganomicon), avocado, tomato and lettuce.
I tend to make veggie burgers w/o a set recipe, so it is kind of hit or miss. Last night made some very good ones with grated summer squash (salted and left for 30 minutes, then squeezed out the water), chickpeas ground up in the food processor, bread crumbs, an egg, and fresh basil. Ate with a mix of greek yogurt and guacamole.
I added 1 1/2 teaspoons of miso paste. I think it helps give an umami flavor.