My best friend just gave me the best birthday present, like, ever. A can of cheese. She knows me well.
Cheese isn't actually easy to gift. Unless you're presenting it to a host or for a housewarming, you can't necessarily count on the gift givee consuming it in a timely manner or storing it properly. Wedges under the Christmas tree? Not so much. In short, it can be an awkward gift. But this cheese, in a can, is another story altogether. And to my delight, it's one of the better American-style cheddars I've ever had. (Not that I'd expect any less from my bestie.)
There are a lot of great things about this cheese — namely, of course, its taste — but what may come close second is its backstory. Washington State University students make Cougar Gold Cheese at the WSU creamery dedicated to cheese and ice cream. They makes a total of eight cheeses — all variations on the classic Cougar Gold cheddar — and 20 different ice creams.
The creamery is entirely self-funded, and all revenue goes directly to the running of the creamery, student salaries, and research. A portion of the profits goes to educational support of food studies students at the university, too.
As for the cheese, it's pretty spectacular. I've always been a huge cheddar lover — in all its various styles — but sometimes, especially with a strong beer, a straight-up, sharp American-style cheddar is pretty righteous. This one is searingly sharp, but with such milky sweetness and mellow finish, it's a dynamic combination of flavors, arguably brought on by the unique cultures they use to specifically support the cheese's ability to age in a tin can.
Each "wheel" ages for at least a year in the can before being sold. Mine was made in March 2008, according to the lid. And I even know who made it. A certain skilled Jeff, says the imprint. Thanks, Jeff. And lucky me, for getting some cheese that's even more aged than what's typically released. All the more developed and robust in flavor.
The texture of the cheese is great, too. Tons of those crunchy, crystalline bits of amino acid clusters, and an amazing structure that just breaks along natural fault lines into wonderfully snackable chards. It'd make a great melter for a grilled cheese or in some mac, but I almost feel that the cheese should be treated as an eating, rather than cooking, cheese. You've gotta love the tin can presentation, too.
Speaking of the can, check out some of the creamery's ideas of what to do with it when it's empty. And if you're interested in learning more about the making of the cheese, there's a pretty informative YouTube video on the subject. You'll learn a lot about the cheddaring process, too.
The cheese is available at stores in the Pullman, Washington area, and at the Washington State Connections store, in the Westlake Mall in downtown Seattle. But for most of us, the best way to get a hold of the cheese is by ordering it online from Washington State directly.
To be honest, I'd probably never think to order cheese online. Finding great cheese in New York just isn't that hard, and paying for shipping seems a silly thing, when typical transport of a cheese for me costs no more than a subway ride. And I'd probably never advocate for buying cheese online, either, unless it's truly difficult to find great cheese in your area.
But I think I just may do it. The prospect of never eating this cheese again is just too sad. It's seriously that good. At $18 for a 30 ounce can, it's not a bad deal, and if you love cheddar as much as I do, it might be just the right thing to have stored away, ready to make an impressive appearance at any given moment, especially since unopened, it lasts indefinitely.
And if you can bear to part with the can, it makes a great gift.
• Find it! Cougar Gold Cheese can be ordered online at the Washington State University Creamery website for $18 a can plus shipping.
Nora Singley is an avid lover of cheese, and used to be a cheesemonger and the Director of Education at Murray's Cheese Shop in New York City, where she continues to teach cheese classes for the public. She is currently an Assistant TV Chef and food stylist on The Martha Stewart Show.
Related: Crispy, Crunchy, Cheesy: Homemade Cheese Crackers
(Images: Nora Singley)

Comments (20)
That can is all too familiar...because a family member in WA gave me one for Xmas, um, several years ago & it's still sitting in the back of my fridge. I realized that cheddar can age well. Any idea how old is too old?
this cheese is the bomb. had some a few years ago...
@choeditor: It's still good! I've definitely had some cougar gold that was years old (unopened of course). And this was from a lady who doesn't have a refidgerator in her house, so it was probably just stored in a cool place!
Good eating!
I love the idea of cheese as a "pantry staple"....
Now that's a canned good ill stock for the next hurricane for sure
My freshman 15 came from Cougar Gold on Wheat Thins. I went to WSU and the creamery on campus sold quarters and eighths of the cheese wheels. Drop in, snag one, all the day's worries go away in little bits of cheesy goodness...aaahhhh....
The cans really should be refrigerated (it even says so on the can). They aren't meant to live in the back of your pantry. And the older they are, the tastier they are.
GO COUGS!
My sister and husband went to WSU so this has become a holiday tradition. My sister made some wonderful cheddar crackers with Cougar Gold cheddar and we've made grilled cheese sandwiches before but it is best straight from the can.
I was about to by the WSU basil cheese... TX doesn't get shipping until November! Bummer.
Our office was sent a tin of this last year and it didn't last long.
Another great college cheese is the cheddar from Mississippi State University. My grandfather buys a brick of it and a ball of edam every Christmas and sends it to every child and grandchild.
Cougar Gold is a fantastic cheese! I know that cheese in a can goes against your basic cheesy instincts, but Cougar Gold rocks!
We reviewed it this summer too.
Cougar Gold: Taste Trumps Perception
Yum! I'm from Washington, and my dad and I love trying new cheeses, so you can bet this made the list. We've got it a few times and it was always delicious. I think your description of it is just perfect.
I have three cans in the back of my fridge now -
I order them by the half-dozen to give and to have around for parties. I love this cheese!
I live just a couple hours from WSU so quite a few of the local stores here carry their cheeses - I just honestly never thought to try it!
I hear they also make some amazing mustard and BBQ sauce...but cheese is now the first on my list to try!
I grew up in Pullman eating this cheese. It's wonderful! I never knew people thought cheese in a can was weird or bad. To me, it's always been the good stuff.
OK, just dug into the back of the fridge & found mine. Made by Jonathan in 2004! Maybe I'll keep it 'til it's 10th birthday then dig into it.
My family is from WA and we are blessed with a can every year. The past couple year's we've even given it to our friends here in the Midwest, and so the goodness spreads! Everyone loves it!
i love this stuff - it makes the best grilled cheese!
Growing up in the Caribbean, we almost exclusively ate cheese in a tin, so I am thrilled to see a version of it so close to my new Vancouver home. Thanks for spreading the word!
But "gift givee"? Really? We do have a word in the English language for the recipient of a gift -- it's recipient.
Also, cheese isn't easy to giVE, not gift. Good gracious, the Kitchn, have some respect for the conventions of language. No need to be lazy in your vocabulary.
Also for anyone in the PNW you can usually get CG cheese at Rosauers Grocery Stores. I really wish I had the foresight to bring a can back with me...
I just began my tenure as a WSU student. I may or may not have turned 80% of a wheel into mac and cheese, then opened the rest up for snacking.
This act made me a lot of friends very quickly.