In the United States of Pizza, crust is a mark of origin. Cracker-thin means California, one step thicker signals the coal-fired ovens of New Haven, while blistered and thick-enough-to-fold-n'-go means New York. Deep-dish, of course, hails from Chicago, and like many New Yorkers I didn't understand its charm. With a daughter attending college in Chicago, though, I've had the chance for plenty of location taste testing. While I'm still not in love with the pie, we're good friends now, and I can definitely appreciate deep-dish's all-American immigrant story.