Green beans are sometimes touted as the elemental food of the garden, meant to be picked and eaten with a bare toss in the frying pan. But I think that this does most green beans a disservice. Yes, those baby beans, whip-thin with a delicate skin, are very nice when eaten nearly raw. But most mature green beans are really more delicious after a long, slow braise — toothsome, but not mushy, with fibers broken down into savory flavors. These beans are my favorite way to enjoy fresh or frozen green beans, braised until tender with onion, garlic, white wine, and a touch of spicy pepper and lemon. More