"There are three enemies of olive oil," says Nadim Beyrouti, proprietor and hospitable host of Oliviera in Nice, France. "Light, heat," he pauses. "And hungry friends."
This is just one of the many things we learned about olive oil from Nadim, a passionate advocate of good, local oil. He owns a tiny restaurant and shop in Nice's old quarter. His two-person staff cooks every meal in an open kitchen with one gas burner and a broiler in a kitchen half the size of my own. And while these meals are invariably transporting and delicious, the real star at Oliviera is the olive oil.