I've eaten a lot of oysters in my life but I distinctly remember the first: it was at Judy Rodgers's Zuni Cafe in San Francisco. I was thirteen, on a date with my parents, decked out in an Esprit outfit with a black bolero jacket striped with rainbow rickrack. It was the Eighties and if nothing else, I got that you dress for a special occasion, but I had no idea how exotic this experience was. When I returned to school with my story, I was greeted with "ewwwww" and wrinkled noses.
With that, I shelved my fascination with mollusks.






















Red-and-Pink-Stripe...
