In the summer, there are often competing forces when it comes to dessert. First are all the wonderful fruit desserts that we can really only have during these three or four months. (Hopefully you've had your fill of crumbles, crisps and pies this season. If not, you've got a little time yet.) The other force, for me at least, are the overly-sweet, fluffy cupcakes and confections you find at weddings, graduations and other summer celebrations. Often nice to look at, they generally don't taste all that great. So by the end of the summer, I find myself craving something different, a not-messing-around dessert: chocolate cake.