My French mother-in-law is quite a cook. Over the years, I've asked for her recipes, but she cooks mostly from memory. I've tried to look over her shoulder and take notes, but she's too quick. When I want to know how she does it, I go to the source, Larousse Gastronomique. I've eaten clafoutis in many forms. (Please don't tell my mother-in-law, but I've made it with ripe summer peaches before. Delicious!) No matter how many variations I try, the classic, with unpitted cherries, remains a favorite.