This past weekend, we got out all our shiny new beer brewing equipment and went to work. In this first phase, we boiled the wort, added the yeast, and got our very first batch of beer fermenting happily. Our evening of brewing definitely had a few bumps, however!
1. Warm Up the Extract - These are cans of pre-hopped malt extract - basically, super-concentrated beer! We need to mix the extract with hot water to get the right concentration. To help extract flow and mix a little better, we warmed the cans in a hot water bath.
2. Add the Malt Extract to the Water - Once the extract is warmed, you can mix into the water. Here, we had about 6 pounds of extract and we mixed it into 1.5 gallons of water. We found out later that we maybe should have only used half the amount of extract for the amount of beer we were brewing. Oh well! We will have extra-rich tasting beer!
Boil the mixture for 45 - 60 minutes. With this kind of extract, you don't technically need to boil it at all, but several of the beer resources we've been consulting recommended doing so anyway. The boil ensures that there's no unwanted bacteria and it also supposedly improves the flavor.
3. Sanitize the Fermentation Equipment - While the beer mix (called the wort) is boiling, you can sanitize the fermentation equipment. For this first stage, we need the fermentation bucket, lid, and air lock. We also sanitized some measuring spoons and spatulas in case we needed them later.
4. Watch Out for Boil-Over! - While our backs were turned, the wort foamed up and boiled over (this is my fiance cleaning up the mess). Learn from our mistake and keep an eye on your wort! As it was, the boil-over looked a lot worse than it was, and we think we only lost a few ounces of liquid.
5. Cool the Wort and Add It To the Fermenter - Once the wort is done boiling, you need to cool it down to around 75° before adding the yeast. If it's too hot, you could accidentally kill the yeast! We simply filled our sink with ice and cold water and set the pot with the hot wort inside. As the water got warm, we drained it and added more ice. Ideally, you want to cool the wort down in a half hour or less to avoid any accidental bacterial contamination.
Once it's cool, you pour the wort into the fermenter and add more cool water until you have a total of 5 - 5.5 gallons.
6. Add the Yeast, Put the Lid On, and Secure the Air Lock - This is when you add the yeast to the wort. The yeast will eat the sugars in the extract, producing carbon dioxide and alcohol. The tight lid prevents too much evaporation and keeps any wild yeast or unwanted bacteria from getting into the beer as it ferments. There is an air lock in the lid so that the carbon dioxide can be released.
What's Ahead?
We'll let the beer ferment in this bucket for about a week before transferring it to a glass car boy for secondary fermentation (more about that later). In the first few days, we saw a lot of fermentation, as evidenced by frequent bubbles coming out of the air lock! As the yeast gradually consumes all the sugars, this activity will slow.
When there's no more activity at all, that's when we'll bottle the beer. Wondering how the beer will get carbonated? Reading ahead in our instructions, we see that we'll add a little more sugar to the beer as we're bottling - just enough to make it fizzy!
Are any of you brewing beer right now? How's it going?
Related: Beer Guide: All About Malts
(Images: Emma Christensen for the Kitchn)







TW Salt Mill by Wil...

I just put a batch of homebrew in the kegerator the other day... it's ready to drink today! The bf and I have been brewing for about a year and a half now. I recommend using unhopped malt extract (what kind depending on what kind of beer you're making) and adding in different hops, along with steeping in some crushed grain in the beginning.
If you get to love brewing, and who wouldn't? It's a hobby that leaves you with good beer at the end! You should think about kegging. It is soooooo much easier than sanitizing and capping all the bottles (it takes like 10 minutes tops instead of an hour plus) and doesn't have to be expensive (everything I needed for my kegerator including the fridge was ~$200).
Also, when you add priming sugar, use regular table sugar instead of the dextrose that probably came with the kit you bought. Boo to corn in beer!
A couple questions: What kind of sanitizer are you using? I've never seen any that are blue.
What size batch were you making? I usually use at least 6 lbs of malt extract in addition to specialty grains and I'm brewing standard 5 gallon batches (with a 2.5 gallon boil).
Speaking of kegging, I've got a very good (if somewhat ugly) page on how to keg your beer : http://www.bodensatz.com/staticpages/index.php?page=Soda-Kegs . Be sure to see the link to Page 2.
Corn in beer is fine and even yummy if you use the right kind of corn in the right beers, and are doing full mashes. Corn sugar - not so much.
Also, if you want to take a quantum leap in quality without going to all-grain brewing, see if there are any full-volume kits available in your area. They are the full 20 litres / 5 US gallons that have never been concentrated. So not only is the quality so much better, but they are easier to make since you really do not need to boil. Here in Canada there are 2 popular lines - Festa, and The Brew House. Festa being slightly better for reasons I will not get into right now.
I love homebrewing. I've ventured into wine as well. I just bottled some wild juneberry wine this past weekend:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/art_chel/3872253253/
@arielg,
I'd love to know more about your kegging process and what kind of a setup you have. This is my next step.
Final step--brewpub.
I've been brewing for some time now, and my dad was brewing before me. I don't understand why people are against the use or corn sugar. Corn sugar is often referred to as "brewer's sugar" because 1) it ferments better than many other types of sugar and 2) it doesn't leave the same flavor residue that other sugars leave. If you're not going to use corn sugar, I'd say use an alternative like honey, or molasses. But don't ever use table sugar!
That said home brewing is a remarkably satisfying hobby. I enjoy it every time. And it's a great hobby to do with friends, neighbors or family. And within a couple of months of brewing day (depending on the beer anywhere from one month to upwards of six), you've got a whole case of beer...that YOU MADE!
@arielg - Doing a batch with unhopped malts and adding our own hops is definitely our next step. We thought we'd start with the most straight-forward method first just to learn the ropes and get the hang of the different steps.
The extract and how much we should use in the batch was a little confusing. We had about 6 total pounds of extract (in 2 3-pound canisters) and were making a 5.5 gallon batch. "Joy of Homebrewing" mentioned 3-4 lbs of extract being standard for this size batch, but we could use more for a "richer flavor". But the instructions that came with the kit and from the beer supply store both indicated that we should use the total 6 lbs. So...we just went for it!
The sanitizer we used was a powder called 1-Step, also sold to us with the kit.
@everyone - can regular sugar be substituted for corn sugar one-for-one? We didn't actually get any in our kit, so going back to the store for corn sugar means another trip up town. It would be handy if we could just use a sugar we could buy at the grocery store, but we're afraid of throwing proportions off. Exploding beer bottles = not so fun.
I think we'll put a keg-o-rator on our Christmas list this year!
I'm pretty sure corn sugar (glucose) is used because it breaks down completely and quickly unlike table sugar (fructose.)
Use the corn sugar sold at the homebrew shop. 5 ounces per 5 gallon batch is standard. If you use table sugar, you can end up with an undesirable cider taste.
I too recommend a wort chiller. Ice baths can sometimes be barely adequate, and I'd rather not take huge risks with the wort not getting cooled down quick enough.
Oh, and 6 pounds of liquid malt extract is definitely common for most batches of beer. Were there any steeping grains or aroma hops added?
Also, it definitely needs to be boiled. Boiling the wort causes the starches to be broken down into simpler sugars which will make it easier for the yeast to break down the sugars into alcohol.
What brand of extract kit did you use?
@art - I bought a kit from kegconnection.com (this one: http://stores.kegconnection.com/Detail.bok?no=329) which is even cheaper now than when I bought it at the beginning of the summer. It has a used corny keg, 5# CO2 tank, dual gauge regulator, shank and faucet to go through the door of the fridge and all the tubing (with almost everything already connected!)
I got my fridge (a 4.4 cubic feet magic chef mini fridge) for $28 on ebay. I would highly recommend getting at least a 4.9 cubic feet fridge (without a freezer) - I had to bend the freezer part out of the way in order for the keg and tubing to fit. In ~5.0 cubic feet fridges and up, you can usually fit 2 corny kegs, which would have been nice as well.
If you order the above kit and get a minifridge, the only thing you have to do is get a 1" hole saw drill bit for ~$2 and drill a hole through the door for the shank and faucet. We had to take out most of the plastic shelves on the door for it to be able to close properly, but if you get a bigger fridge, this might not be a problem.
Best of all, it is soooo easy to keg it (seriously, only a few minutes start to finish including sanitizing!) and the beer is ready in only a couple of days as opposed to a couple of weeks, depending on beer style. I have recently (with the batch I started a few days ago) started force carbonating, where I start the CO2 at 20 psi (WAY higher than it would be served at), kept if there for 3 days and then lowered it to its serving pressure of 12 psi (you're going to want a different pressure for different styles). Beer is then ready to drink in 3 or 4 days.
I'll try to put pictures of the kegerator online and link to those later.
the link above doesn't appear to be working.. go to www.kegconnection.com and search for "1 faucet refrigerator conversion kit for homebrew with keg, standard kit"
okay, here are pictures of the kegerator: http://www.flickr.com/photos/42094043@N03/?saved=1
Regular sugar can be used for priming instead of corn sugar. For the record, regular "table" sugar (granulated cane sugar) is not fructose, it is almost pure sucrose which is a disaccharide formed from a glucose and a fructose joined together. People have success priming with many forms of sugar from corn sugar to cane sugar to more wort to maple syrup. Each of the different types of sugar will produce a different level of carbonation, so in the case of regular "table" sugar you'll actually want to use slightly less weight than is called for in corn sugar since it provides more carbonation. The difference is small and you're not going to be that precise on your first batch anyways, but here is a reference chart for you.
http://byo.com/resources/carbonation
Also meant to say that using regular sugar to prime will not make your beer taste like cider. If too much simple sugar is the cause of cidery flavors in your beer it would come from using too much cane or corn sugar as a substitute for wort when your produced it for the main fermentation (not the refermentation in the bottle for carbonation). Although other common causes of this off flavor are fermenting too warm, aceto bacteria contamination or just straight up acetalaldehyde which is an intermediate fermentation product. Acetalaldehyde has a "green apple" flavor and would likely indicate that your fermentation was not complete when you bottled (the yeast continue to clean up fermenation byproducts even after the gravity has fully dropped from primary fermentation). In that case age can sometimes clean up the cidery flavors.
One last thing, if you're looking for some brewing software for building your recipes, etc. I've started using the brewing spreadsheet at this site: http://dieseldrafts.com/spreadsheet It might be a bit overwhelming for brand new brewers, but it's very comprehensive and free.
When comparing sucrose to fructose for priming, you want to use a little less volume of sucrose, since it is a disaccharide (consists of two joined carbon rings). The weight, however, will be the same. I have heard that sucrose can give some off flavors to beer, possibly because yeasts process it differently than they do dextrose, which is a monosaccharide, but I have not experienced this.
I also recommend a wort chiller - it is very cheap any easy to make - you just need some copper and plastic tubing and connectors that you can get at the hardware store. Connect the plastic tubing to your faucet, then bend the copper tubing into a snake-coil shaped bundle and connect it to the plastic tubing. Then connect the other end of the copper tube to some plastic tubing - this will be the outlet for the hot water, so put it in the sink. Then, you just submerge the copper tubing in your hot wort and turn on the tap. It will cool down 5 gallons in about 5-10 minutes.
I'm so jealous. We almost pulled the trigger on buying homebrewing equipment last year, until we remembered that we live in 500 square feet. There's nowhere to put it all.
Homebrewing is now on the lifetime "to do" list.
A Bread A Day
@scienceandthecity
It is not recommended to measure the volume of priming sugar ever, you should weigh its mass always. (To do it properly you also need to account for the temperature of the beer as residual CO2 is dissolved after fermentation.)
The reason you use less table sugar (a.k.a. sucrose) by weight than corn sugar (a.k.a. dextrose a.k.a. glucose) is that it weighs less than 2 x corn sugar.
Sucrose is C12H22O11 = FW 342
Corn sugar comes in two forms, anhydrous (no water) and monohydrate (one water molecule), so either
anhydrous glucose C6H12O6 = FW 180
or
glucose monhydrate C6H12O6 H2O = FW 198
All three forms of sugar are completely fermentable, so
either of the glucoses will produce two CO2 molecules while sucrose will produce four CO2 molecules during fermentation. Sucrose however is less than half the weight of anhydrous glucose while the monohydrate is the heaviest of them all (must use more weight to get the same CO2).
Check out the BYO carbonation chart linked above to see that 170 grams of anhydrous would produce 2.24 volumes of CO2, monohydrate would produce 2.04, while sucrose would produce 2.36. 0.3 volumes won't make or break a beer, but it is something that the homebrewer can control with practice over time.
PS - the wort chiller is a great recommendation, an IC is a great investment for the increase in beer quality.
sorry, a friend just pointed out I made a typo above.
Sucrose is less than DOUBLE (not half) the weight of glucose. Or alternatively glucose is more than half the weight of sucrose.